When sitting at a table in an impressively designed and well lit and restaurant, it is easy to take for granted all those working behind the scenes to make our dining experience possible. While we are necessitated to interact with wait staff, we tend to forget about all the busy, toiling hands that slice, chop, bake and fry up the mouth-watering foods we love; we forget that it takes the diligent efforts of an actual flesh-and-blood person - usually working under immense pressure - to prepare the foods that miraculously arrive at our table only moments after they are ordered. It is, after all, only natural to spend more time contemplating that second slice of brownie cake than it is to wonder about what kind of day the person who cooked your dinner is having. What most people don't realize, however, is that behind the restaurant industry's thinly veiled façade of professional courtesy is a seedy underworld of substance abuse and despair.

As someone who has been in the business for the better part of a decade, I have witnessed firsthand the terrible lifestyle choices that can arise from working in such an environment. For many of us "line" or "short order" cooks, as we are called, the rigors of long hours, intense physical exertion, and inadequate compensation (all of which come part and parcel with the job) are often motivating reasons for turning to illicit substance abuse. To be sure, this dark side of the industry is not reflected in the camera ready smiles and immaculately starched uniforms seen on the Food Network, or even in the aggrandizing mythologies promoted by food writers such as Anthony Bordain. Rather, it is an ongoing phenomenon that gets little to no mainstream attention. Considering the immense growth of the industry in past years, with recorded sales upward of $631.8 billion in 2012 alone, and the recent emergence of "foodie" culture, more and more young cooks find themselves in compromising situations as they enter into the work force.

This may all seem sensationalist or even like a rehashing of an old story, and in some ways it is - but only to those outsiders who are unfamiliar with this grim reality. In my own experience working at some of the busiest corporate and independent eateries in Toronto and Montreal, I have not seen any measures taken to alleviate the ongoing problem. Instead, what I have witnessed are supervisors that are willing to sell cocaine and methamphetamines to fatigued employees; coworkers spending almost all of their earnings on alcohol at the bar after work each night; individuals driven to work upwards of seventy-hour weeks just to get by on bare essentials; young men and women seriously injured without compensation or due afterthought. In short, what I have witnessed is a great under appreciation of the people who make it possible for others to go out and enjoy their relaxing dining experience.

To really understand why drug and alcohol abuse is so endemic to this particular industry, it is important to take several factors into account. For starters, a great wage disparity exists between front-of-house staff (servers and bartenders) and back-of-house staff (cooks, chefs and kitchen managers). Whereas cooks are paid a fixed hourly rate, wait staff are paid both an hourly rate and gratuity on food and alcohol sales. Ultimately, this means that regardless of how much work they are expected to do, or the proficiency with which they are required to do it, kitchen workers always walk away with less than everyone else at the end of their shift. In essence, the only way they are able to earn more is by working more.

In trying to correct this injustice, several restaurateurs have implanted compensation systems that are more equitable in profit distribution. However, since the average kitchen position still only pays anywhere from $12-14 an hour, is it clear to see how fulltime workers can spiral into near poverty. To underscore just how great the margins in earnings are, consider that in  2008, chef David Chang noted that a server at his Momofuku Ssäm Bar could earn as much as $1,700 in a 32-hour workweek, while a cook working the same number of hours would make $350. To put things in perspective, this means that on average, wait staff are capable of earning up to $43 more an hour than the people responsible for overseeing all stages of food preparation and production. Because kitchen staff are still paid by an hourly rate with virtually no share in the profit from overall sales, they are forced to commit much more of themselves to their work life if they are to support themselves financially. It is not enough, however, that the back-of-house staff are grossly under compensated, but the hours and tasks required of them are immensely difficult.

For this reason, they are more likely to engage in substance abuse as a means of dealing with the pressures associated with their line of work. Of course, not all abuse in the workplace is confined to hard drugs: excessive reliance on nicotine, caffeine, marijuana and alcohol are commonplace and even condoned among certain managers. Some resort to legal substances as a means of coping, while others use heavily addictive controlled narcotics. So prevalent is the problem that combined data from 2002 to 2004 reported the food services industry to have 16.9% of current illicit drug users among full-time workers aged 18 to 64, and ranked highest among all industries. Moreover, it also had a 12% current heavy alcohol use rate and ranked fourth among all industries.

Although there does not seem to be a correlation between low wages and substance abuse, having an individual spend up to 60 hours on their week working under extreme conditions is a sure-fire way to produce negative results. Moreover, because the employee is required to work such long, irregular hours, they inevitably end up associating with those who are in the same position as them. Ask anyone who has worked in the industry for an extended period of time and they will tell you just how easy it is to get involved with the wrong people. If you find yourself slaving away your entire weekend, chances are you will consent to socializing with people and doing things you might otherwise not.

Josh Levitt, an employee at a well-known Montreal steak house, describes his own descent into the world of illicit drugs and alcohol:

I don't think people truly understand how challenging this work is...I mean you have to stand on your feet for hours on end every night unusually until one or two in the morning. And it's not like we stand around just cracking eggs and flipping burgers...this is high volume, fast paced work. After a while in the game, you get burned out and you start looking for ways of making the time pass easier...something to take your mind of the heat and the noise and the chef's voice screaming for you at to move faster. So naturally, in this type of environment, where you also have a lot of cash floating around and people who are desperate to make it through their shift and possibly make a little extra on the side, you are going to find all kinds of bad things going on.

To be sure, the culinary world can be a thankless and brutal one. Some of us choose this path because it is what we love doing, while others do it purely out of necessity. Personally, I have had some of the best times of my life working in kitchens, and I have met some incredible individuals. However, I, like so many others have seen the ugly side of the industry and know the physical and mental toll that it can have. If you are someone who enjoys eating out, just starting out along your journey into the world of cuisine, or an industry veteran who wants to improve the current situation, please remember that it is up to all of us to make a difference in the industry that we love. 

Wonton soup is a veritable staple in Chinese cuisine. Every restaurant in Montreal seems to have its own unique take on it, with some achieving better results than others. When it's made properly, it's salty and savory, meaty and satisfying, with a delightful contrast of textures. When it's not made properly, it's watery, starchy, chewy and thoroughly disappointing, if not entirely inedible.

For convenience, I decided to start my search near Côte-Vertu metro on Decarie Bldv. and to work my way outward towards home, near the Place-Vertu mall over by Cavendish. I chose five popular establishments with good street visibility and a lot of foot traffic, four of them happening to be within a few blocks of each other on Decarie. I decided to get take-out in all five cases, which would give me time to evaluate the décor, ambiance and popularity of each establishment while I waited, on top of enabling me to test the patience of the person at the counter when all I ordered was soup!

Here are the results of my research, which yielded quite a few pleasant surprises...

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1. Fu Kam Wah

2. Kam Do

3. Maison Shing Do

4. Tai Leung

5. Fu Lam Buffet, Wok and Grill

6. Winner and reviews by others

7. Complete listing and maps (includes link to menus)

When is a bean not a bean? When it's a soybean, of course!

Though it may be difficult to navigate the maelstrom of conflicting information out there, it is important to know the pros and cons about the foods we eat daily. Nowadays, it seems like soy is in just about everything - in one unpronounceable form or another - which is reason enough to take a closer look at what exactly it is we're eating.

READ MORE PAGES OF THIS ARTICLE:

What is Soy?

A Little History

Let's Talk Health

The East-West Dichotomy

Corn and Soy and GMOs, Oh My!

It's in Everything!

Social and Environmental Ramifications

The Big Picture

What Can Consumers Do?

YOUR OPINION MATTERS:

What do YOU think? (Feedback please!)

William a.k.a. "Billy" Gogas, co-owner of Lafayette Hot Dog
1870 St-Catherine East, Montreal (514) 522-5028

William a.k.a. "Billy" Gogas is a trilingual Greco-Canadian from Shawinigan with a degree in Political Science and a shrewd business sense who dishes out some of the best poutine smoked meat in Montreal. Sounds unlikely? We're just getting warmed up.

Broad-shouldered and burly, with a graying beard and a strong jaw, Gogas is a tough guy with a heart of gold. Friendly but blunt, disarmingly straight-forward, he has the tired yet bright eyes of someone who works like a dog, but is no stranger to happiness. He also has a sharp analytical mind, an impressive grasp of local and international politics, and could probably teach circles around your average university business professor. Sometimes, you can't judge a book by its cover; other times, a book gets outfitted with the wrong dust jacket altogether.

Now married with a young child and a new baby, Gogas has been working in the restaurant business since he was 14 years old, though, as it turns out, not entirely by choice. The son of Greek-immigrant parents, Gogas started working at his father's restaurant in Grand-Mère, Shawinigan, where he was born and raised. Growing up, the restaurant business was not so much a calling as a way of life. "My father used to say a restaurant is like a prison with the door open" explained Gogas, "it takes up so much of your time and energy that you can never really leave".

As a teenager, Gogas learned how backbreaking and unforgiving the restaurant business could be, so after working for the family restaurant as well as a few others, he decided to pursue a different path. After attending John Abbott College then Concordia University where he obtained a degree in political science, he hoped to pursue a career that would enable him to travel and see the world. With that in mind, he tried applying for the Foreign Civil Service, then CSIS, or even briefly considered applying to the SQ, but openings were scarce, the timing was bad, and it just wasn't in the cards. In the back of his mind, the restaurant business was still looming, and it seemed like to obvious next choice.

 The decision to get back into the restaurant business after University was initially supposed to be a short-term measure, but after a while, reality hit home. "I'm Generation X - we think we can do anything; but eventually, you gotta wake up" explains Gogas. After several years of managing other people's restaurants and learning from their mistakes, he ultimately decided it was time to run his own place and started looking for joint venture opportunities. In 2002, he found just the opportunity he was looking for in Lafayette Hot Dog, a family-run restaurant that has been around for over 35 years.

 Granted, becoming a co-owner and co-manager of your stereotypical "greasy spoon" in the heart of the Village might seem like a strange business investment to some, but not to Gogas, who recognized both the establishment's longstanding success and its long-term potential.  Gogas was also drawn to the fact that Lafayette's is an independently operated, family-run business, not a franchise or a chain. "When it's not really yours, when you don't have any real control, you just can't be as invested", he says. He was also keenly aware of the strong work ethic that such businesses usually entail and to which he largely attributes Lafayette's success over the decades.

 Lafayette's is a homey place where the waitresses always remember their customers - either by name or by menu preferences - and where you're always greeted with a warm smile. Excellent customer service is a key-component to their ongoing success - as is ensuring customer satisfaction. This is where it's important to have a manager on site, says Gogas, who has been known to pull double-shifts behind the counter.  "We [he and his co manager] are here to solve problems. If a customer's not happy, we give him a free meal... whatever it takes" says Gogas, who further explains that even though his staff has the leeway to make these decisions themselves, they often aren't comfortable doing so, and having a manager on site helps smooth things over. This also helps keep the staff in line and operating at peak efficiency, which in turn enables them keep to their costs down and their menu prices low.

Price is another important factor, says Gogas, explaining that in today's economy, everyone is struggling - including his customers - and that providing good value helps establishments such as his stay afloat. He also explains that providing fast, friendly service and flexible menu options, such as substituting ingredients, make these establishments stand apart from all the McDonalds and other impersonal fastfood joints out there.

When asked what the greatest challenge he has to face as a restaurant owner is, Gogas is unequivocal: "Politics. Politics and corruption." Armed with a degree in Political Science, Gogas knows a thing or two about how the system works - or, in his opinion, doesn't work. He blames political corruption, high taxes and mismanagement for the state of Quebec's economy and its repercussions on consumers and business owners alike. He also points a finger at the new POS (point of sale) software imposed by the government. Meant to prevent tax evasion, the new system was a pain to implement and can really slow things down, particularly during the lunch rush. To make matters worse, this past year was particularly difficult due to a number of factors, explains Gogas. He cites the sluggish economy, the numerous student protests that bogged down the city core, the never-ending road work which made traffic a nightmare, and the changes to the fireworks schedule this past summer, all of which had a detrimental impact on tourism. "Montreal was blacklisted." Explains Gogas. "Who's gonna wanna come here?" Though his restaurant managed to pull through, he was forced to let go of no less than 8 employees and take on double shifts to pick up the slack.

Gogas also explains that language issues are a source of headaches in the restaurant industry. Growing up in the heart of francophone Quebec, he frequently witnessed and was sometimes the target of language and cultural-based discrimination. Today, even though he runs a French establishment with francophone waiters and all-French menus, he says he's still occasionally the target of language-based discrimination. "I'll be speaking to a customer in English and someone will say 'aye, retournes-chez toi, le Grec' [go home, Greek], and I'll say 'I'm from Shawinigan, and I speak French better than you, why don't you go home?'"

When asked what his plans are for the future, Gogas replies that he's seriously thinking about leaving Quebec, perhaps of going to Ontario. Between the stagnant economy, the corrupt politics and the construction situation, Montreal has become an increasingly difficult place to survive for small business owners, and many restaurants have gone under in the past few years. When asked how he manages to stay in business when faced with such insurmountable odds: "Dumb luck", he replies. And though I suspect the real answer must be far more complex, I can't help but admire his modesty as I settle down to enjoy my Poutine. 

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Lafayette Hot Dog
1870 St-Catherine East
(in fron of Papineau Metro)
(514) 522-5028

And yet, all is not so cheery in Montreal's restaurant scene. Times are tough, and with so many upscale restaurants struggling and going under in this difficult economy, it's a wonder that these casual establishments - with their modest or even meager markups - manage to stay afloat. Their unlikely longevity is a testament not only to their success, but to their popularity, as equally evidenced by the popularity surge in television shows featuring casual eateries, like the Food Network's "You Gotta Eat Here" and "Diners, Drive-Thrus and Dives". So what's their secret? Montrealers love their comfort food, it would seem: familiar, down-to-earth dishes like tomato alphabet soup and a pizza-ghetti, washed down with an oversized tumbler of orange crush and polished off with a tiny bowl of pudding chômeur. On the other hand, Montrealers also love their fine dining, which doesn't prevent dozens of more upscale restaurants in Montreal from tanking every year. So what's the secret to diners' success? What keeps us going back to our favorite lunch roosts time and time again?

It might be a subconscious desire to root for the underdog, to scorn Big Business and make an effort to ensure that small business owners aren't pushed out of the market by all the McDriveThrus of this world. Perhaps some feel an almost familial sense of loyalty towards the restaurants they've been going to for years, where the waitresses remember their names and where they can just order "the usual". Personally, I admit to feeling a certain unadulterated joy at being able to kick my shoes off under the table and unabashedly eat with my fingers alongside other diners who are shamelessly doing the exact same thing. In today's high-tech, high‑stress, high-octane society, it has become something of a guilty pleasure of mine to kick back and relax with the local paper and a bottomless cup of mediocre coffee instead of endlessly running from one place to the next with a Smartphone in one hand and a mezzo frappuccino in the other.

So my neighborhood burger joint wouldn't be my first pick for a first date or an important business meeting. But a mid-week lunch with co-workers, or quick bite and welcome reprieve from cooking at home after a long day at the office? Bring on the paper placemats! Despite their bad rap, I think I speak for many Montrealers when I say that greasy spoons shall forever hold a special place in my heart, red vinyl, grey linoleum and all.

[1] www.europea.ca/ 

First and foremost, in Downtown Montreal on Bishop Street there is one of the most friendly, coffee/resto I have ever been to, Kafein. Although it does bring in many customers from Concordia University, it is just not enough to do it justice. From their healthy sandwiches on focaccia which are always accompanied with a side of chips and coleslaw, to their homemade chili and soups, to the out of this world smoothies, this quiet and hypster coffee house is one that makes it great to chat with friends over a cup of coffee. Kafein is made up of two floors depending what you are in the mood for; while the upstairs is made up of a couple tables and chairs where you can sit quietly and do homework while enjoying their very affordable Latté; the downstairs is more of a lounge where you can have great conversation with the staff and other customers. The service was very good and quick. Kafein is definitely one of the best I have seen in awhile, and is sure to melt the heart of all coffee addicts out there in more ways then one.

Cafe Myriade

Image source: Flickr

Next on my list was Cafe Myriade. I went on a hunt for this quaint coffee shop after reading the many positive reviews. I felt like it was worth a shot, and that it definitely was. Walking in you smell that fresh cup of brewed coffee which completely clouds your mind as you're walking up to the cash. The menu is written on a black board and offers a variety of different choices sure to warm the heart of anyone. Playing music from Radiohead and My Bloody Valentine sets a cool ambiance great for hours of conversation. Cafe Myriade prides itself, from what I could see, mostly on exotic drinks, like chocolate water--water with dark cacao which tastes bitter, but full of flavour. This coffee house is definitely different from Kafein, in the way that it's more intimate, leaving it as a place of discussion more then an area where students can go and do homework.  Now lets get to the coffee, which is a discussion on its own! The cafe has a great variety of beans (Kenyan, Jamaican, American) which are chosen to fit specific types of preparation. While other coffee shops offer you a wide range of choices, you will definitely appreciate the more narrow and focused selection here. More, the diversity of the menu is also reflected with its authentic and rare tea varieties such as the Black one imported from Northern China. This exotic coffee shops will definitely open all coffee lovers to a new flavour of coffee.

Cafe Olympico

Image source: Flickr

Cafe Olympico definitely has to be one of the best italian coffee bar/coffee shops I have ever visited. From the coffee, to the food, to the people and staff, for many Italians it's a piece of home, and for newcoming customers like myself, it's a mini trip to Mile End located on St Viateurs. Definitely busy and always full of noise. Besides the flavourful coffee, what I enjoyed most was the barista with his curly moustache. He made this cafe feel comfortable enough that it could be your home for right now, surrounded by people who no doubt enjoy coffee and company as much as the next person. Cafe Olympico is definitely simple and to the point, which makes it easier for newcomers who walk through the door, confused by all the noise going on around them. The smell though when you walk in definitely gives most a headache, but I enjoyed very much; it is a mixture of the espresso which this entertaining barista has just made, with the fresh desserts. there is nothing fancy in the seating area but the old Italian look of the place definitely gives you this warm and inviting feel. I greatly enjoyed their very cheap...did I say very cheap $2.50 cappuccino and scone. Definitely a Montreal hit. 

Montreal is surrounded by the hyppest undiscovered coffee shops, that I myself am slowly only discovering now, after 22 years. It's a shame that so many people choose brands over quality!

If you're unfamiliar with its location, located in Ville Saint-Laurent, Decarie Hot Dog is extremely easy to pass by. But having students, residents of this city, and workers from the area  walking up and down Cote Vertu, it's a landmark people tend to always find themselves eating at and enjoying.

I can imagine at peak hours this is no place to hesitate, since the space is so cramped and in high demand that movement would be essential to the safety of your person. We took a minute to decide, or rather, to find "hot dog" on the menu. We ordered two of the combos, one with poutine, that netted us four steamies, wrapped in individual Lesters papers, two drinks and two orders of fries. An older man scribbles on the counter with a pencil to determine our total, which comes to roughly $13. Definitely a good deal, not too pricey.

For the uninitiated, a steamie is the Montreal version of a hot dog - picture the steamed white bun and boiled wiener variety that competitive eating contestants consume repetitively, which are spread with yellow mustard and topped with a tangy coleslaw. Decarie Hot Dog is more or less what defines the best Montreal hot dog, in my opinion. Of course, best is quite personal.

The fries come in paper bags saturated with residual grease. A couple shakes of salt sitting on our table brings the flavor up to snuff. These fries are of a soft and creamy variety, almost like strings of mashed potatoes soaked in fryer oil. The poutine variation comes smothered in a gravy more reminiscent of the chicken sauce. Sweet and tangy are not words I ever want to describe poutine gravy, but it is the only way of describing this explosion of flavor.

As I sit there there are more swarms of people going in and out, addicted and hypnotized by the Decarie Hot Dog experience and meal. And who do we have to thank for this Montreal landmark, Nick and his wife, who have run and worked here for more then 40 years. Having their son Tom there, now, to help run it, I can definitely see this restaurant is here to stay for a long time.

Q: How long has Decarie Hot Dog been open?

A: It's been open for almost for about 45 years.

Q:What made you choose this area?

A: I started in many several places, first in the East end, but there was too much commotion and violence at night, 40 years ago. I then moved to Jarry Street and Henri Bourassa, but there was a spot available in Ville St Laurent. It was a quieter area, and more family oriented. I built up my restaurant and told myself I would ever move. 

Q: Do you prefer the restaurant or cart?

A: Ugh that's a hard one. They are definitely both very different, but having had the restaurant for longer, I definitely have adapted myself to it and enjoy it.

Q: What made you decide to go into the food industry?

A: Well I arrived in Canada and I enjoyed being with the public, being on contact with them and serving them. At that time I was given the opportnity to work be given my own restaurant, so I took it, and enjoyed it so much I stuck with it.

Q: Did you ever think it would become such a landmark?

A: Well by the time I moved here I had gained experience and patience not only in the food industry but with people as well. I also sacrifices a lot to get to were I am now. It is not that it does not surprise me, but it definitely pleases me. A lot of hard work from me and my family has helped push this restaurant for success and we are no doubt proud that it has gotten to where it is now.

Q: Have any famous people passed through these doors? 

A: Oh! Many politicians lik Stephane Dion, and mayors, as well as athletes from the Alouettes and Montreal Canadiens. There has also been Rene Angelil.

Q: Have you retired yet, or are you still working there?

A: No I'm always working. I do leave for Greece with my wife for four months out of the year, but when I'm back I'm working.

Q: Do you ever plan on retiring?

A: No never! I will continue to work until my feet keep me standing.

Q: Is this a business that you will be passing down and keeping in the family?

A: Yes definitely. My son and daughter are already handling the business. All the administrative part of the business they have taken charge of, and my grandchildren come in and help during the summer, weekends, and whenever they have time off. This restaurant will always stay within the family. 

Q: Do you enjoy what you do?

A: Yes. I go in 7 days a a week and will always do that.

Q: If you can go back, would you change anything or any decisions you've made about the restaurant?

A: No. People tell me I should have enlarged but I have kept it a size I can manage well.

Q: Is there one dish that beats all the rest?

A: Hot Dogs but poutine has become a close second.

Q: Do you get sick of being around food and eating it?

A: No! Never! If I don't have a hot dog a day then forget it, something is wrong. I eat the product that I serve to other people and I'm proud of it and it tastes very good so I eat too.

Though eating locally sounds like a trendy term adopted by foodie's, purchasing local produce is actually beneficial to your health, as well as the environment. Even with a bounty of information available on the web, questions remain; questions that make local eating sound extreme, out of reach and expensive.

Montreal is home to a variety of fresh food markets that offer Quebec grown produce. The Jean Talon Market, the most popular, has a long history with Montrealers. Providing locals with food that has been grown in their province is one value you can't buy in the grocery store. When the vendor is the same person who grew your food, you know you've reached a community of locals who believe in supporting Quebec while also living healthier lifestyles.

Is eating local really all it's cracked up to me? Here are 5 common myths debunked about local eating that will challenge you to see how a trip to one of Montreal's many markets will change the way you think about fresh food.

Top 5 Myths:

#5 - You can't get locally grown, fresh produce all year round.

#4 - Locally grown produce costs more.

#3 - Locally grown food isn't really better for my health.

#2 - I will only be able to eat certain produce items for a few weeks/months a year.

#1 - There aren't any markets nearby; they're all in the city.

Works Cited

Do you know where your food has been?

Live a local life.

This backgrounder takes a look at the role of the Jean Talon Market in Montreal and how its presence within the city has contributed to a local food movement.

Eating locally encourages a food system within proximity that provides locals with sustainable produce. Fresh produce markets play a major role in Montreal's food culture. Four larger, well-known markets - Jean Talon, Atwater, Maissoneuve and Lachine - make up for most of the local produce that is sold in Montreal, making it easy for locals to eat the freshest, shortest-distance traveled food. Therein lays the outstanding belief and value that the local Jean Talon market stand behind - local farming and eating local in order to help Montreal sustain itself with fresh food.

The Early Years

The renowned open air market has a rich history in Montreal. In 1931, the city of Montreal purchased what at one time a lacrosse playing field. Namely the most popular market known to Montrealers, the Jean Talon Market was inaugurated by then mayor, Camillien Houde, in 1933. In its infancy, awnings and long canopies from the north and south ends of the open market served as a hub for distributing local produce to clientele. The market then occupied a main building known as the "chalet". Aside from the market occupying the chalet, a Laval bus terminal and restaurant also shared the space until 1961. With a large clock heading the front of the building, the Jean Talon Market settled roots in its underdeveloped yet overpopulated neighborhood. Located in the Little Italy district, the market itself contained a certain European flair with its exterior setup, therefore drawing in local Italian-Canadians. Its defining characteristic being an open air market meant merchants built their own coverings during the winter months in order to keep selling their produce. Over the years, the chalet has served as a point for growth for the market. In 1943, six entrances made up the Jean Talon Market as it looks today. By 1983, heated coverings were put into place in the winter, and by 2004, the market would undergo an evolving transformation.

 2004 - Today

The market evolved from a hidden neighborhood market into a dynamic and expansive area. Nestled and surrounded by residential buildings, Jean Talon Market's clientele grew exponentially. Though the market sees most of its traffic from May to October, it became necessary to expand the area for the growing number of vendors interested in displaying their produce. In 2004, an underground garage was constructed in order to open 450 parking spots, which has also made room for 22 new specialty shops in the market. Furthermore, the space created room for 30 new outdoor stales headed by Quebec farmers and artisans. Committed to bringing Montrealers the freshest food possible all year round, the market also went on to expand their winter mall - living up to their longstanding mission statement "To give Montrealers access to local produce in their public markets that relate to their values" (CGMPM).

Until 2006, a vehicle was welcome to traverse through the market streets, but since, a new policy has been implemented, allowing vehicles from Friday to Sunday only. This has been a popular and convenient characteristic of the market.

The Current Issues - Local Produce vs. Imported Produce   

Many of the issues that surround the market have little to do with the market itself, but rather the values and beliefs it embodies. The economic, environmental and health benefits behind the idea that local produce is a better, more sustainable food system to live by encounters problems when it is pinned against the convenience and habit of importing produce. Imported produce is transported from out of country resources; this has become the main method of receiving produce in grocery stores. Between quality and cost, imported produce is not always cut out to be the best route. This has contributed to local farming becoming exceedingly popular.

 Here is a look at a few outstanding and contrasting issues that have made local farming a widely supported option:

 Economic

• Grocery stores rely on imported produce because food distributors have been able to meet the needs of most grocery store chains. Imported food is supposed to provide goods that are not available in a respective region. Even when fruits and vegetables are available in Quebec, grocery stores continue to import them. Last year, Hellmann's Canada produced a video in which they reviewed how much produce is imported into Canada. They revealed that within the last 15 years our food imports have increased by 160% while our population only grew by 15%. In order to transport all of that extra produce costs a great deal of money.

• Local farming aims to provide for a region with a sustainable approach. Local farmers grow and sell what is in season. Manageable baskets of vegetables are portioned off for purchase by vendors at the Jean Talon Market. This method allows farmers and vendors to regulate how much produce is necessary to meet the local's needs. This also helps to control vegetable waste since farmers can only sell what they have grown. Transportation costs are also minimal seeing as local produce travels far less distance than imported produce. Seasonal produce that has traveled a small distance will always cost less than the average cost for the same item in a grocery store. Buying locally grown food from local farmers directly supports the economy while encouraging a sustainable food system.   

 Environmental

• Mounds of excess produce in grocery stores have led Canadians to waste more vegetables. According to Statistics Canada, vegetables top the list for food waste. This accounts for 51% of the total food wasted in Canada. Food waste highly contributes to pollution and global warming. The most harmful damage caused by imported food comes from transportation. Imported produce begins its journey outside of the country, then to a distributing plant and onto a truck or plane before it even reaches its intended destination. Transporting produce requires an enormous amount of fuel considering most produce is imported, which causes damage to the environment.

• Local farming practices food growth and selling within the region it occupies. Buying produce that is grown in province relies on less fuel and cost to reach consumers. In Monique Beaudin's Gazette article, "Bumper crop - in the city", the effects of local and urban gardens are addressed: "It reduces heat-island effect, where local temperatures are high because of concentrations of concrete or asphalt. It also shortens the distances that food has to be shipped to reach people, cutting vehicle pollution. And it encourages biodiversity by introducing plants and vegetables into the city, creating habitats for a diverse range of creatures and a food source for birds and pollinating insects, such as bees and butterflies"

Buying local produce from a market such as Jean Talon encourages a population to grow their own food. Beaudin's article also showcased an urban garden in the middle of Montreal called the Jardin du Marche rue Ontario. This one garden provides neighborhood locals with vegetables and herbs. Supporting local crops promotes a self sufficient attitude. In addition, Montreal harbors 97 community gardens that are in constant demand. Local planting becomes more appealing to a population when quality, taste and handling all left in their control which contributes to a healthier environment in return.  

 Health

• Imported food has the highest risk for contamination. Because imported food travels far greater distances than local food, it exposes produce to chemicals, toxins, and mishandling between facilities. In an assessment report conducted by the Canadian Food Inspection Agency in 2010, the Fresh Fruit and Vegetable Program did not consistently receive import documents containing facts about produce items that need specific inspection. Without these documents, inspection staff members do not have any basis for sampling produce for analysis. If imported produce does not follow strict guidelines for inspection, then contamination becomes a major issue for consumers. Slips on food inspection and safety at the Canadian border are a reality and in turn compromises the health of those who purchase imported food. During the transportation process, imported produce also gets sprayed with a film of vegetables oils and various waxes in order to prevent them from bruising and brightening their color to have them appear more attractive.

• Attaining fresh produce all year long is important to our health. When certain produce items are not available due to climate conditions or season, the belief of the markets is to preserve what you can. Eating seasonally helps promote a healthier lifestyle. Food that is picked in season and preserved is richer in nutrients. Preservation is encouraged at the market seeing as local growers concentrate on providing seasonal produce. Preserving fresh foods while they are still in season ensures that locally grown food can still be available during those months when an item is not in season. As produce goes in and out of season, there is no shortage of new produce to discover, as well as preserve. Between canning, freezing, and pickling, options for preserving foods are also vast.

Another health benefit to buying from produce from the market is the relationship locals adopt with their vendors. Every year in late August and into September, Jean Talon Market vendors take down names and numbers of customers who want to reserve bushels of tomatoes, corn, strawberries, etc. for the coming harvest weeks. Vendors also participate in teaching locals about their produce items and different methods of storage, preparation and preservation, all attributing benefactors to a healthier lifestyle. The opportunity to know the person who has grown your food, handled your food and knows how to get the most out of it exists at the market.

Future Implications: How Does the Jean Talon Market Affect Montreal's Future?

In an informative article in the Montreal Gazette, "Radical roots", local farmer Jacques Remillard is featured as one of the many vendors who want Montrealer's to be introduced to fresh and new produce by offering samples of them: "Pairing knife at hand, Jacques spends his autumn days at the market bundled up in wool and flannels, slicing off slivers of bright pink Moroccan radish, pink turnips or black-skinned radishes for customers to try. He's a one man marketing board for varieties of strange and radical roots" (Semenak). This experience is unique to the market. In order to be further educated about local fresh food and its benefits, sampling it and learning about it from the person who grew it effectively brings you closer to the food you eat.

The Jean Talon Market's presence within the city encourages locals to eat regionally and to maintain their produce needs by adopting a seasonal attitude towards consuming. In turn, the market relays these affects to Montreal as a whole:

• Rely less on imported produce
• Increases urban agriculture
• Encourages the notion - Buy local when we can, and import when we must
• Promotes a self-sufficient community
• Demonstrates how available and affordable local produce actually is            
• Supports the local economy and the environment

The Jean Talon Market plays an integral role in inspiring local chefs to showcase locally grown produce. Olivier Perret, chef of the Montreal restaurant, Sofitel, creates a weekly menu from his regular Thursday trips to the Jean Talon Market. His Menu du Marche consists of local produce that is bought from the market. This is another way that the market's influence on Montreal is showcased. Vendors provide and educate customers like chefs who in turn teach their customers about allowing the seasons to create the menus. This circle of local food education passes on the markets values to Montrealers and tourists alike.

The future of the Jean Talon Market is strongly held by the beliefs and values it presents with the bounty of locally grown Quebec produce it showcases. The market brings tradition and availability to Montreal after 79 years of continued growth and expansion.  

Works Cited

Beaudin, Monique. "Bumper Crop - In The City." The Montreal Gazette 17 Sept. 2011: B1. Print.

Blogger Martin. Project 365: Day 270. 26 Sept. 2012. Montreal in Pictures. Web.

Canadian Food Inspection Agency. n.p. 9 June 2011. Web. 18 Sept. 2012.

Dean, Adam. Policy Innovations. n.p. Web. 18 Sept. 2012.

European Bri. 3 Jan. 2011. Euro's World. Web.   

Health Canada. n.p. 1 June 2001. Web. 7 Sept. 2012.

Head Health Nutter. Live Lighter. 10 Apr. 2010. Web. 11 Sep. 2012. 

Hell, Karl. Importing. Reference for Business. n.d. Web. 1 Dec. 2011

Marches Publics de Montreal. Corporation de Gestion des Marches Publics de Montreal. nd. Web. 14 Sep 2012.

Mayssam. Jean Talon Market. n.d. The Montreal Buzz. Web.

Reid, Evelyn. About.com. n.p. 2012. Web. 14 Sep 2012. 

Semenak, Susan. Market Chronicles: Stories & Recipes From Montreal's Marche Jean-Talon. Canada: Editions Cardinal. 2011. Print.

Semenak, Susan. "Preserving For the Rest of Us." The Montreal Gazette 5 Oct. 2011: C1. Print.

Statistics Canada. n.p. 29 Oct. 2008. Web. 28 Nov. 2011.

The University of Utah. n.d. Web.

Van Rosendaal, Julie. "Freezing the rest of your best - Save freshness - Make the harvest last through winter." The Montreal Gazette 5 Oct. 2011: C4. Print.

Co-owner, Arhoma Bakery

Ariane Beaumont, originally from the Eastern Townships, is co-owner of Arhoma Bakery. A fresh new bakery/coffee shop situated deep in Hochelaga-Maisonneuve. It is located in an area certainly not renowned to foodies or to most Montréalais. Just east of Pie IX and below Sherbrooke St, Arhoma sits in Place Simon-Valois, a concrete park in a new condo development. It recently has doubled in size splitting into a bakery and coffee shop. In front, green tables and chairs invite you to sit down for a coffee, croissant or just people watch. This is where I sat down with a somewhat exhausted Ariane on a warm, sunny November afternoon. Her hair and jeans white with flour welcoming the chance to sit, with a smile of content that wanted to yell out loud, "I am fine right here." Unfortunately, Jerome Couture, her partner and baker, could not join us.

Image source

Image source

AFB: Tell me about the bakery's name, Arhoma.

Ariane: Arhoma is a play on words. This area is called HOchelaga-MAisonneuve and we liked the word Aroma and decided to combine the two by adding an H. So, Arhoma.

AFB: Do customers ask you about the name?

Ariane: Less and less, but yes at the beginning everyone was wondering how to pronounce it and not many understood the name. Most thought it had to do with a play on "arrondissement" and not the actual name of the arrondissement, Hochelaga-Maisonneuve.

AFB: Why did you choose this area of the city?

Ariane: We decided to buy a condo in the area and realized there was no bakery, well at least not the way we thought a bakery should be. Jerome is a baker, having worked for Premiere Moisson and we wanted our own business. We wouldn't have start a bakery without one of us having the experience and knowledge.

AFB: So, I gather you are not a baker?

Ariane: (Laughter) No, not at all. I was in commercial decorating and design, so I am responsible for the bakery's layout and nothing to do with the production side. There is no doubt since we opened I had to learn almost all different facets of the business except making the actual bread. We wouldn't last very long if I started baking. I leave that part to Jerome. (laughter)

AFB: Speaking of decorating, there is obviously a lot of green. Would this have to do with strictly a color preference or are you trying to show you are environmentally friendly?

Ariane: We are definitely concerned about the environment and do the most we can.cow.jpg

AFB: What is it that you do to show or be environmentally friendly?

Ariane: Well, we do more than just show we are conscious of our surroundings. Even before we had the business it was the way we approached our every day lives. We always tried to buy local products and now here at the bakery we work at being sustainable by doing the same thing. Also, it is more interesting to deal with local suppliers for us and our customers be it a cheese manufacturer or knowing that the wheat used to make our flour is grown not far from here. It's fun to be able to associate with our suppliers face to face instead of having to deal by email or phone. Also, to be able to have local references, it's good for the growth of Quebec. It's the way businesses should be run and for us it's the way we will continue to do business. We wanted a business with as much as possible Quebec products, but not just any Quebec products. We want good products from good Quebec companies that have the same values as we do. It is one thing to encourage Quebec companies but we want to encourage Quebec companies that also work well.

AFB: Do customers ask about the ingredients you use or where the product is made?

Ariane: Yes, often we tell them that our wheat comes from Meunerie Milanaise, wheat that is more and more known and used. It is also being sold now in groceries. An organic wheat for us is important because our base product is bread and it shows we have an ecological conscious. Not only that but it tastes good. We can be as sustainable as we want but if we can't offer a good product it defeats the purpose.

AFB: The pistachios are green. Are they used because they are green or...

Ariane: (Laughter) No, not at all. I was brought up to always look at things from a different angle. My father was a sculptor and taught me to always find a different way to do things. To be different instead of copy and if you have to copy, copy with a flair. Here at the bakery we want to be recognised on how we do things no matter if they're almond croissants, that everybody does or our pistachio croissants. They're over a dozens nuts we can use why use one that everybody is using. It is so conventional. It's like the bakeries are going through the motions instead of standing out. Let's experiment, push ourselves. We think it's important to push ourselves all the time. I wouldn't have this business if I have to stagnate and not have fun looking for new products.

AFB: Is there an ingredient besides organic flour that you use or would like to use in all your products? An ingredient that you love.

Ariane: Maple Syrup. It is a typically Quebecois product. It is also a base ingredient because it is sugar. I use it as much as possible on almost everything. On pastries, cappuccino's and even frozen yogurts in the summer. My partner is from La Beauce and he was brought up drinking maple syrup, so yes, maple syrup. It is not an original product but one we love to include in almost everything.

AFB: Would there be a type of bread you don't do but would love to bake?

Ariane: My partner having worked at Premiere Moisson for so long, we loved to eat their Raisin, Honey and Hazelnut Sourdough. We would wrestle with the question on how are we going to live without our sourdough bread. Everybody makes the bread and we didn't want to be like everybody else. So we replaced the honey with maple syrup and the raisins with cranberries, which are grown here in Quebec. Growing up I used to have "Toast aux bleu" every morning. My partner still reminds me on how I would come down the stairs with a slice of toasted sourdough with blue cheese. Just thinking about it gives me the urge to have one. (laughter) Changing ingredients has certainly given us the opportunity to come up with different recipes which have been received quite well. Customers would want to meet Jerome to let him know how much they liked the breads, but he doesn't feel like he's invented something or that he's a creator as some patrons would tell him. It's really not complicated to change the ingredients, to add color by using pistachios or to mix cranberries in our breads.

AFB: Well, my next question was going to be what is your favourite thing to eat but I think you already answered it.

Ariane: (laughter) "Toast au bleu?" Yes. The cheese side of the bakery comes from the idea that cheese and bread go hand in hand. Cheese is and can be eaten without bread but with difficulty, and the bread well, it's the cheese's best friend. It's number one accomplice, that's for sure.

pistachios.jpg

AFB: You seem to be very tuned in with social media...

Ariane: It's not us really. One of our customers is the one who created a page on Facebook.. He came in one day and told us how much he love our breads and told us he would put up a page to spread the word. Those were his words by the way, not ours. We're not really good with computers per say but I do follow what is said about us, be it on Twitter or Facebook. I also like to find out what everybody else is doing be it new recipes from here in Quebec or abroad. Also Marie-Claude Lortie's blog's are read weekly. We also like to go to new bakery openings to take the time to look and more importantly smell what is new. (laughter)

AFB: I have read many favourable reviews about Arhoma, but I also read some that were the complete opposite. When you see such reviews, first of all do you read reviews and how do you react be it positive or negative?

Ariane: It is important. I follow what is said on a weekly basis. We see who is following us, who is adding us and what they are saying about us. We try to react positively to negative reviews and try to improve on what is said but there are certainly a lot of positives reviews which encourages us but it is rare someone comes to see us here in person. I mean it would be hard for me to go over to an establishment and tell them face to face how horrible they are but with social media it's easy to criticize.

AFB: What would be your biggest daily challenge?

Ariane: This being not only our first bakery but also our first business the biggest challenge right now is growth. We now have 40 employees and when we started we had no one. We also double in size doubling our square footage. We had a very small production run and now well we have grown quite a bit. So, it is very difficult to manage such fast growth and to hold on and keep control especially with human resources. It has become a juggling act trying to keep things in perspective. All of a sudden we need a punch clock and the employees that have been with us from the beginning, who used to write their hours worked on a piece of paper, feel like we don't trust them anymore. It felt like a crisis at the time. Everybody felt like family and now it has become a business and it's tough on the oldest employees. We used to be friends and now we are looked upon as bosses.

AFB: Do you have a growth strategy for the next year?

Ariane: Yes, actually we are opening a second bakery at the corner of Papineau and Ontario.

AFB: All this growth must have taken it's toll on your social life or do you still have time to go out?

Ariane: Since we opened Arhoma everything has changed and still changing as we speak. No we haven't really had the time to go out, and yes we certainly miss it. Actually, we are never home and haven't watch TV in such a long time that I don't even remember how to turn it on. (laughter) If we do go out it is mostly to our customer's restaurants or new openings.

AFB: Do you think you have a made a difference in the area?

Ariane: Yes. I think we did and do. We had one customer who told us that when she was trying to sell her condo she suggested that the potential buyer come by and visit our bakery. It will give them an idea of what is happening in the area. A lot of people who have a negative view of Hochelaga-Maisonneuve are surprised by what they find now when they come down Ontario Street.

AFB: One last question, if I may, "Bread and it's Accomplices" Besides the obvious connection to cheese would it mean anything else?

Ariane: No, not really, but you know bread doesn't really need cheese or any partner in crime. It can be eaten all by itself and it's so good (loud laughter).

AFB: Ariane, I want to thank you very much for having taken the time to talk to me.

Ariane: It's been my pleasure.

Image below: FourSquare

Arhoma

15 Place Simon-Valois

Montreal, QC

H1W-0A6

514 526-4662

www.arhoma.ca

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Image source: Flickr Montée de Lait

Slowly ailing from the fog, hovering over the St-Lawrence river, a boat could be seen, at first distant and calm modeling its shape revealing to be imposing and grandiose in all its might, this boat made of woods with sails engulfed with hopeful winds softly calling for a new world and life, was carrying in its storage the culture that would become the proud and unique Quebecois way of life. This boat not only carried a culture but culinary items from the homeland, France. Fast forward this picturesque scene and sit at the Banquise restaurant on the St Laurent Blvd. with a poutine to master and conquer, you will notice that food has definitely a nature of its own in this beautiful province. The French refuse to identify the hybrid Canadian-European varieties, much like a bastard child out of wedlock. Whereas French food has evolved from a sophisticated, rich and refined cuisine that can be considered as snobbish, so heavy with various protocols and etiquette to the point of losing your appetite.

When comparing Quebecois to French food, we should understand that food in this case has two altered meanings for these territories. In the French traditions, cuisine is cherished and affiliated with different regions each carrying its different amounts of sunlight and richness of soil. Properly divided, we can recognize a dish's flavour by its use of herbs, spices and meats. To add, dishes are arranged in a way that would make impressionist painters blush with envy. We can recognize ounces of colors, vibrant contrasts, subtle touches of artistry, conveying the recipient of dish to a magical journey of history and masterful storytelling through the palate. In deep contrast with France's artistry and regional traits, the Quebecois cuisine is more practical.

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Continue reading....

As the clock turns to 2:45, the bars and clubs on Crescent Street begin to close their doors to late night party animals. Around the corner, Boustan and Amir, two Lebanese eateries are beginning to turn their ovens on high in anticipation to the exodus of hungry bar hoppers alike. With only about 200 feet separating the two it seems that a decision must be made between which one to dine. While Boustan has great ambiance and superior food quality, the Amir franchises offer consistent food combos with a greater variety of food items to choose from.

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Continue reading....

From Monday to Sunday, from opening to closing time, you will not get a table without reservations; but you can squeeze in at the bar, between Martin, the eccentric owner and a likely French couple, and enjoy a delicious appetizer of "cochonailles" along with an expensive but carefully chosen glass of red wine. Surely, it is the beginning of a long night at Le Pied de Cochon, one of Montreal's few traditional restaurants. Indeed, authentic Quebecois restaurants are rare and incredibly expensive in Montreal. Because of the high price of local products, fruits, vegetables, meat and dairy, less and less restaurant owners dare to serve traditional Quebecois meals.

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If you ever had the chance to live in Quebec province, you must have heard of the Saint-Hubert restaurant. Saint-Hubert is a French Canadian based franchised restaurant, which was named after the street of st- Hubert in Montréal. After being founded in the 1950s, the first st-Hubert restaurant launched a BBQ rotisserie for customers to enjoy succulent roast chicken, fries, Cole slaw, with a lightly seasoned sauce. Soon, the rotisserie was to become a legend. Ten years later, they've built two more branches. The founder Helene and René Leger   developed the first chain of restaurants in Quebec in the1970s where each chain store offered free delivery of foods. This has made st-Hubert restaurant the first free delivery franchised restaurant in Canada.

After sixty years running the business, Saint- Hubert now has become one of the biggest franchising restaurants in Canada. Probably you may want to know what the secret recipe for their maintaining success is; their customers will definitely tell you that it must be their amazing Rotisserie chicken. This lip-smacking rotisserie chicken is always fabulous and the portions are large and tasty. The meat has been well cooked and literally falls off the bone, it tastes juicy, moist and well-seasoned. The skin is crispy and nicely browned; in fact, a lot of people like the tastes of the skin the most. The full plate includes a half bun, gravy, coleslaw and a side dish for you to choose from including, fries, mashed potatoes, baked potato, rice pilaf, salad and steamed vegetables. Although these accompanying sides aren't anything special, collectively they complement the chicken in an unpretentious way. Besides the chicken, you can also get soup and desert or coffee at a reasonable price. In addition to all the items mentioned before, what really makes rotisserie chicken special is that it is covered with honey sauce while being roasted; this is done to make the chicken tastes sweeter and more delicious in order to cater to the typical French taste. If you want to try a real French-style grilled chicken, you definitely shouldn't miss Saint-Hubert.   

For tourists, it might be strange to see a little yellow car with the Saint-Hubert logo lit up at night and being driven around Montreal; but indeed it is Saint-Hubert's delivery car which has become one of its symbols. The distinct feature that makes Saint-Hubert a legend franchised restaurant is their free delivery service. Widely known by people from Québec, Saint-Hubert offers the best service of food delivery for almost 40 years. Once you place an order, you will definitely hear the doorbell ring within 40 minutes and the delivery guy will hand you the well-packaged food with a big smile on his face. This has become the most notorious symbol of Saint-Hubert restaurant for so long.

Both Saint-Hubert's food and service represents the typical French Canadian styles that are diversified, friendly and honest. Maybe you've never been to st-hubert Street in Montréal, but you should definitely go and try one of the Saint-Hubert restaurants to taste their classic French Canadian BBQ chicken.

Poutine is known to be a high caloric and cholesterol-packed meal, but to a great number of people it is still an irresistible heavenly treat. So how were the people of Quebec able to deliver such a unique, tempting and pleasing meal? It started about fifty years ago when a man by the name of Fernard Lachance had to prepare a special request for one of his clients that craved French fries with melted cheese curds. The sauce was later added to keep the fries sizzling warm. Being a relatively cheap meal, on average $7.50, it is packed with enough carbohydrates to keep one energized. I can simply imagine how satisfying it was to have the warm poutine back in the days when heating was minimal during the rough Canadian winters. With its tremendous popularity among Canadians, many people would travel specifically to Quebec to consume this exquisite dish. Poutine is not only served in all national fast food chains but also in high-end restaurants. It is served at anytime of the day with a strong association to people famished after a long night of drinking. There isn't a specific way to make Poutine, hence many varieties are offered. For example, some places use frozen French fries while others use fresh hand cut potatoes. In chic restaurants and bars, you can add chicken, beef, sausage, lobster or caviar. Many cultures are adopting this meal and creating their own varieties; Italian Poutine has Bolognese sauce added, and Greek Poutine has feta cheese added.

Canada, specifically Montreal, has become a main source of multiculturalism and international immigration attraction. It is currently the host to a dramatic increase in the number of nationalities that include Lebanese, Syrians, Indians, Chinese and many more. That being said, Poutine is acknowledged by many people in international countries by word of mouth and the media's growth, gaining a wide range of notoriety. This gives many people a sense of urgency to try this mysterious mess-like dish, but Poutine is so extremely attached to the people living in Quebec that you could hardly consume it outside of North America.

Every person, nation and country has a symbol that they're proud to show the world. Quebec has been proud to present their magnificently famous and delicious meal, Poutine, for well over 50 years. Poutine is something that everyone should taste, especially on those harsh, cold, snowy days. Some people fall in love with it from the first taste while others have to try it a few times before getting addicted. Whatever your situation is, whether a tourist, an immigrant or a resident, you should be proud to experience real Poutine and most of all be proud of the culture that was creative enough to develop such a meal. 

Image source: Flickr.

Image source: Flickr

If literature and other types of art are the main points which define a country's or a region's culture, its food and cooking must not be left behind. Thus, without evoking a pretty famous cliché, I'm French and I have always been a food fanatic. As a result, as soon as I moved from Paris to Montreal, I discovered a sharp interest for the local gastronomy. After trying many of the province's specialties, I've decided to focus on Québec's cuisine and in particular on its French heritage in the way of cooking and the approach of food, firstly, examining the multiple origins of Québec's cuisine, secondly, analyzing the huge role France has in Québec's food culture, and thirdly,  revealing the chronological evolution of this province's gastronomy starting with the adaptation to local weather and ingredients and the recent rebirth of food patriotism, which has resulted in a fine internationally-recognized cuisine.

The gastronomy of Québec today is a singular melting pot of English, Native Indian and French roots, which has been going through a successful revival that started about twenty years ago.

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If I tell you the name Martin Picard, does it ring a bell? What if I say that his foie gras' poutine's unique flavor makes people travel just for a bite? Well, if you still don't know Martin Picard, I will introduce you to a great chef with authenticity and passion. Chef Picard is an excellent chef, but due to a lack of interest in culinary art, not all Quebecois people know of him.

Montreal's newest Eastern European population has recently shifted to the working class neighbourhood of Côte-des-Neiges.  Geographically located at the centre of the island of Montréal, Côte-des-Neiges is bordered by Decelles Avenue to the northeast and the Notre Dame des Neiges Cemetery to the southeast, Westmount to the southwest and the juncture of Chemin de la Côte-des-Neiges and Chemin Queen Mary. The Eastern European population of Canada amounts to only 8.5% of the population and represents less than 3% of Montréal's population.

 In response to customer needs in the area, a large Eastern European grocery store - delicatessen serves customers of Russian and East European ancestry. With fresh product from naturally smoked sausages, homemade sauerkraut, sprats and stuffed grape leaves and canned items such as chestnut purée, pumpkin seed oil and white cherry preserves customers of Bucharest Delicatessen on Decarie Boulevard are well supplied to create authentic family favourite meals.        

Montréal, with its reputation for having some of the best restaurants to be found in one city, does not disappoint.  Epicureans from all corners of the world are represented in Montréal and those with a taste for authentic Eastern European cuisine have a number of brilliant choices.

Continue reading for recipes...

Recently news hit that celebrity chef Gordon Ramsay had become part owner of Rotisserie Laurier BBQ along with current owners, Danny Lavy, Danielle Lord, and Marie-Christine Couture. Does the likes of a straight shooting and crude celeb chef fit into the quaint yet increasingly trendy area of Mile-End? One might argue that Rotisserie Laurier BBQ is not in need of saving, seeing as it has survived for over seven decades. On the other hand, for a place that looks tired and out of place on Laurier Street, it most likely will benefit from a Ramsay-style reformation.  

In the case of Rotisserie Laurier BBQ, tradition should be prepared to roll with it. 

Gordon Ramsay's temperamental discipline is controversial and questionable, but behind the potty mouth is a chef who has taken a serious interest in bringing back to life the likes of tired and lacking restaurants. In 2004, Gordon's Kitchen Nightmares debuted in England and showcased Ramsay intervening to rescue restaurants from the brink of failure in his native country. His passion for quality food and service lends direction and motivation to staff and owners, resulting in reformed restaurants. Ramsay could bring a surge of capital and a new found reputation to Rotisserie Laurier BBQ that is in need of a face lift. While historic preservation, especially in a city like Montreal, is essential, sometimes what history needs is a helping hand. 

Montréalers have forgot the rotisserie spot on Laurier St..  Most likely you've heard about the place or been there once or twice years ago but can hardly remember anything special about it. The chicken is just chicken and there isn't anything special from the fries to the soups; the food in general lacks distinctive flavors that create memorable food experiences. There isn't anything remarkable about the rotisserie to garner attention outside of the small number of loyal customers and random walk-ins. 

That's where Gordon Ramsay comes in. 

Ramsay's culinary experience and direction will take the menu and the ambiance to another level. I don't think a rotisserie in Montreal's small nook of Mile-End needs an overly refined and overpriced restaurant. What locals need is a place where they can go to pinch barbeque cravings with food that tastes and looks invested in creating a comforting, lasting memory. What locals need is to see their neighborhood barbecue joint bettered, not totally abandoned. With a mission for quality and the driving determination of its new partner, Ramsay can help Rotisserie Laurier BBQ fit into, as well as help raise the number of worthwhile restaurants in the area. The now dormant establishment isn't contributing anything meaningful to Mile-End other than being that old, ok, chicken place. In addition to a culinary and financial contribution, Gordon Ramsay's name behind the rotisserie will shed more light on Montreal's food scene.   

Montreal is slowly being put on the map as a culinary city to look out for. With the success of Garde Manger in the Old Port, owner and head chef Chuck Hughes hosts his Food Network hit show "Chuck's Day Off" right here in the city. Montreal is finally becoming recognized for more than poutine and allowing great chefs to stand out and represent us. The addition of Gordon Ramsay to Rotisserie Laurier BBQ will also help attract the attention of foodie's globally. With all of our markets and food resources across the city, the province, and nationally, Montreal would have an advocate in someone who has an international following. With the right direction and with the good of the restaurant in mind, the chef could help establish the rotisserie as more than a neighborhood staple. 

No one wants to see a long ago established restaurant change so drastically that we as locals can't recognize it. Keeping the integrity of the restaurant's history is important. After reading food writer, Alexandra Forbes food blog containing an interview given by the Gazette, partner Danny Lavy reassures: "This is not going to be a Michelin-starred restaurant project, but a platform for something to roll out". You don't have to be from the area to value a restaurant that has been in the same place, serving the same food to basically the same crowd for so many years. I don't want anything of tradition to disappear in this city, but I think the last thing any Montréaler wants is a flailing business in a borough that lends itself to our city's popularity. 

For a city that harbors so many rotisserie joints, it would nice to have Rotisserie Laurier BBQ on the map as the place to get excellent barbecue, a beer, and a memorable time. Gordon Ramsay might be what revives Rotisserie BBQ Laurier. Ramsay's challenge remains restructuring the eatery while respecting the integrity of the restaurant's long history in the city. For now, we'll just have to keep an open mind.

Besides, if the Brit messes up, we'll just run him out of Montreal with our own f-bombs. The French ones.

Works Cited:

Leung, Wency. "But Gordon, will poutine be on the menu?"  Montreal Gazette. 12 Nov. 2010. Web. 12 Mar. 2011.

Forbes, Alexandra.  "Chef Gordon Ramsay takes over Rotisserie Laurier, in Montreal" The S.Pellegrino World's 50 Best Restaurants. Alexandra Forbes, 13 Nov. 2010. Web. 12 Mar. 2011. 

Image source: Flickr

A significant percentage of Montreal's Haitian population resides in Montreal North. Montreal North is an oblong municipality located along the Rivière des Prairies in the northeastern part of the island of Montréal.  It is bordered in the east by Rivière des Prairies-Pointe-aux-Trembles, at the southeast corner by Anjou, the south by St. Leonard, the southwest by Villeray-Saint Michel-Parc Extension and the west by Ahuntsic-Cartierville.

Haitian cuisine/recipes include many of the ingredients that we use on a regular basis in Canada, as well as a number of tropical vegetables and/or fruits that can only be found at specialty shops.  A chain of grocery stores in the east and north end of the city is inter Marche/4 Frères. With18 locations, they cleverly allow their franchise owners/managers to adapt to their individual community's needs and wants in order to satisfy the tastes and requirements for creating traditional home-cooked meals. 

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The city of Montreal is home to a number of popular coffee chains, such as Starbucks and Second Cup; however, if you are seeking out a special experience, Montreal houses an even greater number of independent coffee shops spread throughout the city. The independent coffee shops in Montreal are hallmarks of city's rich diversity and culture.

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