Chuck's Day Off is divided not by recipe, but by Chuck's narrative about the person or group the meal was prepared for. Where the tv show allowed you to learn from step-by-step instructions, the cookbook narrows in with a story to accompany the recipes. It's the stories that truly connect you to the food that follows. From his family to his friends to the elements that inspire him, there's a way to relate to the food by the sharing of his memories and motivators.
In the "The Hockey Team" chapter, Chuck talks about his love for the game and the league he plays for. You get the keen sense that the chef feels most at home on the ice. Comparing hockey to working in a restaurant, Chuck talks about cooking for his hockey idols and the immense appreciation he has for their love of his food.
In his past life as roadie, the chef travelled and catered for bands on tour. The story kept me on my toes as Chuck talks about cooking for three days straight at his first Osheaga gig. As a musicophile, I couldn't get enough of this portion of the book. To hear the story and connect it with the gorgeous Fish Tacos on the next page made the experience whole for me as a foodie, a reader, and a music lover. There's pleasure to come from a full circle thought that pairs with a visual.
Every chapter of the cookbook follows this theme of story and recipe. It is incredibly humbling to read and inspires the idea to think about the food that connects you to the people in your own life.
From the very first page, Chuck holding his dog Filou, to the very last page, listing the many names of people he thanks, this cookbook is more than its recipes. Chuck's Day Off pays homage to the connections and inspirations behind the food. It is an outstanding take on the typical cookbook. It takes a dive into more than pictures of good-looking food and easy-to-follow recipes. For anyone who enjoys cookbooks or appreciates food, this is one for collecting.
T H E R E C I P E S
The beautiful and wide pages of Chuck's Day Off inspire you to want to crack it open and get in the kitchen. The layout of the recipes is simple to follow with each distinct element of the dish divided. Even the technical aspects of some dishes are without fuss. In an explanatory visual on how to shuck oysters, no easy task for most, is broken up into four steps that take the difficult out of the job. Some of the more complex recipes that require various steps, like the Bison Tartare, are designed on the page to be exceptionally approachable. Regardless of your cooking level, you will easily be able to follow along and will continually be invited to explore, make mistakes, and play with ingredients.
If any part of the book calls to home cooks who enjoying throwing dinner parties like myself, it's the chapter on the Staff Meal. Picture telling a couple of your friends they're invited for dinner on Friday night where they'll dine on Garbage Salad followed by Hot Dog Risotto. The whole chapter intrigues the norm and entices a unique spin on relative classics. Playing on templates, the Fish Bolognese calls for chorizo, white fish, capers, and pitted olives. My Italian roots gravitated toward the Boston Salad with Fried Sardines; a layered stack of buttery lettuce leaves and fried fish with a light snowfall of roasted, crumbled, and jewelled speck. Though it sounds off the radar, the chef notes that the item is a popular dish at Garde Manger. Though I'm charmed by the concept of the cookbook, what makes it whole is how it isn't specifically targetted to a certain level of cook. Whether you're a home cook or a restaurant cook, Chuck's Day Off isn't about tuning skill, it's about inspiring your food thoughts.
Chuck's Day Off will visually trap you into rummaging through the pages to see more. The photography reflects Chuck's cooking style: totally fuss-free yet gorgeous, jagged around the edges yet put together. The first thing to grab you when picking the book up is how wide the pages are. The book itself is appealing to hold, and with its soft binding, easy to place down on the table to follow along. The next thing to pop at you are how the pictures act more like art. The collection of food shots are among the best. Deep and darkly rich colors page after page, from Pork Belly with Coffee Glaze to Sticky Fig Pudding. Gorgeous plates set on cutting boards, rustic tabletops, and dark wood. If the stories and recipes hadn't already captured me, the pictures alone would have been worth the buy.
LOBSTER COBB SALAD
SOFT-BOILED EGG ON CREAMY POLENTA WITH KALE AND CRISPY SERRANO HAM
PORTERHOURSE STEAK WITH ASPARGUS AND HOLLANDAISE SAUCE
ROASTED FILLET OF GROUPER WITH PAN-ROASTED CIPOLLINI AND TOMATOES
LEMON TART
B U Y Chuck's Day Off
M O R E Chuck Hughes
]]>It has been 8 years since Montreal chef Chuck Hughes opened Garde Manger. In that time, it has become a home to classic, fresh seafood staples, and one of the most talked about restaurants in the city. Garde Manger has earned its buzz. Most of us expect to see lobster risotto and fresh oysters on the menu at all times. More than anything, we all want that winning lobster poutine that earned Chuck the big-win on Iron Chef America against Bobby Flay. Since then, he has opened his second restaurant, Le Bremner, in Old Montreal. From hosting his own travel cooking show, Chuck's Week Off: Mexico, to his newly appointed judging duties on Chopped Canada, Chuck Hughes is evolving from local chef to a traveling representation for Montreal's current food culture.
After 8 years of riding the wild adventure that has been the success of his restaurants, cooking shows, and cookbooks, Chuck is ready to move forward as a mentor. In a conversation about his travels, Chuck took the time to talk to me about becoming a new dad and how he's ready to spend a year living in Mexico.
]]> Now that you are a father, what food values do you hope to pass down?That's a really good question. It's a big concern for me because I never usually cook at home. When my girlfriend was pregnant I started cooking for her but it was different. I started thinking more about balance and nutrition. I'm a lot more conscious about what we're eating from that perspective. I'm looking forward to cooking at home now because it's just so important. For family, I think the best thing you can do for yourself and your child is to eat well in a healthy, balanced way.
Anything you can share about what's happening or coming up in your life?
I just became a new dad, so a lot of diaper changing! Honestly, I'm going to try to make my way back to Mexico. The restaurant is 8 years old and I have this dream that when it hits 10 I'll be able to go to Mexico for 6 months or a year and really live a different experience. I've always looked at those people that leave for a year abroad and I've said "Oh, that's so lucky", and then I get caught up in restaurants and business. Now, I'm at a point in time where I think I'm ready to kinda try something new and experience something different. I'd love to do that, to take a year, and not necessarily off, but maybe do a pop-up somewhere in Mexico and live that lifestyle for a little bit before things start to get too crazy again with kids. At some point you need stability and you need to kinda figure out where you're gonna plant your roots. Hopefully, I can get back to Mexico and live exactly what I got a little bit of a taste of when I went down there for the show. I really fell in love and it'd be fun to go back, That's what I'm working towards right now.
What cooking techniques or food influences did you bring back with you to Montreal from your time in Mexico?
Oh, what a great question. I was kinda going to Mexico because I'd been before and I was interested in what I saw, but I wanted to dig deeper. I wanted to learn more and I realized when you stick to certain places you don't get the full picture, so I wanted to explore the country as much as possible. Like Canada, Mexico is very regional, so different regions have things to offer. In terms of what I brought back, it's mostly a philosophy we try to live by here. With food now it's a lot about farm to table and using the whole animal. This is something chef's do now because it's kind of an old technique that's coming back, but in Mexico it's really a way of life. It's all about using every last ingredient and making everything last. There's such a respect for food and where food comes from. That's what I maybe wasn't expecting to find. We love to talk about organic, local, sustainable, and regional, but Mexico is all about that. Without putting any labels on it, it's a fact of life and it's a way of life. I was probably inspired the most by a lot of the people that I met which were not chef's at all; it was grandmother's, grandfather's, people who love food, people who cook, but cook because they love it. Some of the people I met cooked professionally but weren't necessarily professionals. It was really just about this guy does this so well that he's become known in his village. He's the guy that you go see if you want cochinita pibil, which is like braised pork that cooks underground and they cover it with cactus leaves and banana leaves, then you build a fire on top and it can take 13 hours to cook. I think I learned a lot about food and cooking mostly through philosophy - the philosophy of cooking.
It's safe to say that you're heading the evolution of Montreal's food culture. Do you ever feel the need to bring your Montreal roots with you when you're cooking in other parts of the country or world, like on your trip to Mexico?
Yeah, I think that's the beauty of cooking and for me it's the one thing that brought me everywhere in life. You take your cooking skills with you, and you know, food is a great equalizer and a great communicator. It's that one thing that everybody does to survive, but we all view it and do it differently, yet, somehow, we all communicate through it. I think that's probably one of my biggest links to Mexico: my passion and love for food and the way that I can communicate and connect with everybody just through that common passion, you know what I mean? That's really what I can bring to the table in terms of bringing my Montreal aesthetics and my Montreal ideas to Mexico. To be able to kinda get inspired by their flavours, their techniques, and their ingredients yet put my own twist to it. I find it easier with Mexico because we do share a lot of the same common goals in terms of food. We share a lot of the same ingredients, it's just we just use them differently. In Quebec, pork and corn are a big part of our staples, less now, but traditionally, that was a big part of what we ate. If you go to Mexico, those are still some of the things you'll find are staples everywhere.
In your latest cookbook, Chuck's Day Off, you talk about how your mother would bring home an array of seafood from her time as a stewardess. A huge part of your identity is centered with this culture of fresh oysters. In a city known for its poutine and steamed hot dogs, is Montreal becoming the place to eat oysters?
You know, I think I owe it all to my mom in that respect. My grandparents are from New Brunswick so it was a big part of their history and a big part of growing up. Back in the day they were very poor and lobsters and oysters were the staple foods. Unfortunately, it became an elitist food because it became expensive. Back in the day it was really all about sustainability and what you have around you that you can eat, so I think that's a big, big part of the reason I love it so much. The second real answer is that, you know, most all of the seafood brokerage that's done from the east coast is in Montreal. If it`s not New York, it's probably Montreal. A lot of my oysters come out of the water on Monday and end up on the table to my customers on Tuesday, and by the time Wednesday rolls around I'm already receiving another shipment. So, the proximity to the oysters is, in terms of timeline, as close as it`ll ever be. I get most of my oysters flown in fresh from Air Canada Cargo before they probably hit the tables in PEI. There's this kind of offer and demand in the sense that because we are a culture that loves those oysters so much, and because we buy so many, we get a lot of great fresh produce. When you're cooking with shellfish and seafood in Mexico, it`s also a big part of the culture and the food scene. When you`re cooking shrimp, clams, and octopus, ultimately the flavor is really in that ingredient. You don't need to add much: a little bit of salt, a little bit of spice, a little bit of freshness, maybe a little bit of lime. Really it`s kind of like the best way to cook for me because the ingredients do the talking. To me, seafood is the best way to express myself in terms of cooking and food, just because you just don`t have to do too much.
We`ve learned a lot about Garde Manger from your tv show and cookbooks, but if someone hasn`t been to Le Bremner yet, how would you describe the food you`re putting out, and how does it differ from Garde Manger`s identity?
Well, I mean, in terms of inspiration and philosophy we're kind of on the same wave length. You know, what I would say at Bremner we're maybe a little more adventurous and we kinda go off the beaten path a little bit. Garde Manger has been there 8 years now with these staples that will never leave the menu. People come from all over the place to try these specific things where now a lot of these dishes have become classics. It was very hard for us to change the menu and do different things. People would come and I would have to fight with them all the time, instead of giving them what they want. So, Garde Manger has become its own little world and we try to keep it that way. I want to keep it in the inspiration that we had when we opened and not defer from that too much. I want to give the people what they ultimately want and what's worked for us for the past 8 years. Then with Bremner it's all about raw shellfish, raw fish, raw seafood, maybe trying things that we wouldn't necessarily try at Garde Manger. Different location, different, area, whole different world, so I would tell people to definitely try them both!
Major congratulations to you on your judging spot on Chopped Canada; I'm so happy to see you there! How are you enjoying the opposite side of the fence for a change?
Yeah, it's honestly been a lot more fun that I thought. It's fun not to feel the pressure every moment and after these years to be more of a mentor; more of somebody who can hopefully be an inspiration and guide people with my comments. In no way is it me trying to break people down or break their spirit. It's inspiring to see people come and battle it out for $10, 000. Somebody is really going to have their life changed that day. It's pretty unique and it's a lot of fun to be a part of. I admit I'd rather be on the judging side than the competing side. You know, 15 years ago it was a different story. I was just not there and now I think that after all these years, I'm a little more comfortable in that mentor role and I'm happy. I'm happy you're enjoying it!
In a Live Twitter event last month, Chuck answered some of my questions about the food he experienced while in Mexico. Here's what he had to say in 140 characters or less.
What dish most stood out to you?
Street food in Mexico City! Consume (chicken broth) it is hard to tell you how beautiful it tastes.
Did you try any chilies in Mexico that you hadn't before? Anything we might be able to find in MTL?
Guajillo! Love this one!
Did you have any delicious coffee or soda brands from Mexico that stand out as memorable?
Juaritos which is flavoured soda and the Mexican Coca Cola with real sugar cane.
Besides cilantro, what herbs do the locals use in their dishes?
Epazote but you can't get it here, hoja santa is also commonly used
What was the salsa like in Mexico?
Fresh, hot, delicious and really diverse. There's a salsa for every occasion.
Do you have a favorite restaurant in Mexico City?
Wow. El Borego Viudo.
Loved Chuck's Week Off! Any chance you'll continue that series in the future?
Definitely thinking of it and I'd love to, and we could do another whole series on Mexico.
Any Mexican inspired dishes at Bremner?
Yes, we do a raw fish with chamoy - sweet and sour salsa.
After the shop talk, I wanted the inside scoop on what Chuck is listening to and where he gets his late night eats.
What are the 3 bands/artists you currently can't get enough of?
The new Arctic Monkeys, produced by Queens of the Stone Age
Bob Marley for Babies
Cartel de Santa
Do you still cover long shifts? Where do you go out to eat in Montreal after a long night of service?
When I'm in Montreal, I try to be as much as possible at the restaurant. Whether I'm washing the dishes, helping the guys on the line or just sweeping up, that's where you'll find me.
As for late night restaurants, I'd have to say Bethlehem XXX on St. Laurent. It's a unique, off the charts, weird experience. It's art, it's food, it's cool, and it's open really late.
I write a lot about Montreal markets. Do you ever visit any of the markets?
Always. I order from large suppliers for the restaurants so I'm not there every day. I go to Jean Talon Market for different reasons; I go to Atwater market for different reasons, but I do use both of those a lot. Just to bring it back to Mexico, you have to look up Centrale des Abastos. If markets are your thing, go to that one! It's probably one of the most amazing. Just to give you an idea, the statistics of that market is like one baby is born every week in the market, and its huge, it's crazy. There's a death, there's a birth, there's a fight, there's a fire, there's an earthquake; it's its own little city.
A big thank you to Chuck Hughes who was incredibly kind, down-to-earth, and a blast to talk to. Want to know more? Keep connected to the latest by following the links below.
Follow Chuck on Twitter: https://twitter.com/ChefChuckHughes
Like Chuck on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/ChefChuckHughes
See Chuck in Pictures: http://instagram.com/chefchuckhughes
Restaurants - Cookbooks - TV: http://www.chuckhughes.ca/
Pique Your Interest in Mexico: https://www.visitmexico.com/
Photo Credits: Diary of a Social Gal, Food Network, Square Space, Beyond Vision, LH8, Chuck Hughes, Strategy
]]>Fresh chestnuts from Italy
]]> When I reach Marche Tania, Montreal has turned a slightly deeper shade of grey and a few degrees cooler. It's mid-November and this is my first visit to the cozy, family-run store. The first thing I notice is a great big wicker basket filled with chestnuts from Italy. Smiles rise in me to see these deep brown rounds in a heap right at the center of rows and rows of fresh produce. This seasonal staple reminds me that despite the snow and severe cold still to come, there are warming and comforting foods to look forward to. There is a long history of tradition in just this one basket.From where I'm standing I see bright colors of green asparagus and the sunny skins of clementines, people moving indoors and out and conversations happening all around. There's a register set up outside where a woman bundled in her red jacket is smiling and speaking closely with a customer. I hear them talking about how good last week's grape was, and I have to smile to myself and jot that down in my notepad because this is the sort of closeness you see at the market so often. The Jean-Talon Market is a wholesome escape. I didn't only come here to interview a produce guy, more than anything, I came to get close to something special he has been a part of for a long time.
Marche Tania mid-November display
Marche Tania is a quaint little haven in a great big market. On the far right of the outdoor display, the last of the Greek figs are slightly over-ripened, and if you've ever eatten figs right, you know their present state is downright sublime. Looking around, there are only a few red apples left and even less of bell peppers. This sight would have me running out of a grocery store, but at the market, it's a pleasure to see small quantities of produce in baskets that are left for empty at the end of the day. There are gorgeous matte pears, jewel-colored plums, and yellow mangoes sitting in baskets, rows of apples, and bundles of onions and carrots. Between the exotic items, seasonal items, and the traditional ones this time of year, the fruits and vegetables are stars here. That is, until you meet Joe Romito.
Joe is the guy behind the beloved family-run Marche Tania. Immediately upon meeting him, he lights up, "So, this is Ruby!", and apologizes about the paint on his hand when he reaches to shake mine. Joe and his neighbor John are in the middle of painting the indoor produce tables a vibrant grassy green. With new, softer lighting and a fresh coat of light blue paint on the walls, the store is getting a face lift.
The first thing I learn about Joe is that he's a very open person who likes to talk; the second our conversation begins, the hours pass in a flash. Rosie, Joe's wife, and her brother Reggie are here today working outdoors while Joe is putting the finishing touches indoors. At its root, Marche Tania is built on family.
Joe Romito, proud Montrealer
In the early 50s, Joe's parents immigrated from Sicily to Montreal. He was born here, and from the pictures of Impact players and his beloved "Allez Montreal!" plaque on the wall, I can already tell he's proud to be a part of this city. It's love for this city and neighborhood that has earned Joe his "great guy" reputation, and in turn, earned Marche Tania a reputation for feeling like home.
Ruby: How, if at all, is your Italian heritage reflected here at the market?
Joe: The number one thing we bring here is the family atmosphere.
Ruby: I can already see that. You have your wife here.
Joe: My wife works here, my daughter works here. It's a family owned business, it's always been family oriented. We're very friendly to our customers, we know a lot of them and at least 75% of them know us by name.
Ruby: When people come here do they know it's a family run business?
Joe: They do. I've been here 28 years now, so it's like a landmark.
Rosie's father and uncle began their start at the Jean-Talon Market in the early 60s. They were pioneers in their own right as one of the first importers of rapini (also known as broccoli rabe), in Montreal. Back in the 60s and 70s, rapini were hardly known, but when Marche Tania opened their doors in 1984, distributing the slightly bitter and peppery green became a staple.
Before it was Marche Tania, Joe and his brother-in-law named the store Nick and Joe's Juicy Fruits. When La Protection de la Langue Francaise was implemented, it forced them to change their name. Joe decided to name the store after his only daughter, Tania. There isn't one aspect of Marche Tania that isn't touched by the idea of family and togetherness.
Still, when I probe Joe about passing his life work down to one of his kids, he hesitates for a moment. I can see how humble he is about his hard work, but an average week for Joe runs 60 to 70 hours. He works 7 days a week and hardly sees a Sunday off. Though his kids work at the store part time, he's honest about not wanting them to takeover. Joe is wide-eyed and proud when he speaks to me about his kids. He's especially proud that they attend school and are following their own career paths.
Joe and wife Rosie in the middle of sprucing up the store
The entire time Joe and I speak, he doesn't spend any time making excuses for his honesty. When we get to talking about produce as his business, he's forthcoming and unpologetic about where his produce is from and why he chooses to provide Montrealers with fresh food that isn't local.
Ruby: Where does most of this produce come from - is any of it from Quebec?
Joe: No, most of the produce in the summertime is from California, and most of the produce in the wintertime is from Chile.
Ruby: Was that a decision you made or was it out of necessity?
Joe: That's basically where the fruit and vegetable market brings us; this is what Montreal, Quebec, and Canada brings in. In the summertime, 90% of peaches, prunes, plums, nectarines, apricots, and cherries are coming from California.
Ruby: Why do you choose to import?
Joe: If there's a demand, and other countries are importing, then why not? We grew up in an era, the Italians, when a pastry was only eaten at Christmas. Today, you're watching a movie and say 'let's go get some cannoli's' - you know what I mean? We used to eat cherries once in the summer and now you're eating them at Christmas and after Christmas.
Ruby: Do you carry anything that is Quebec-grown?
Joe: Strawberries, sometimes. When strawberry season comes in I let the farmers sell it because it's their time. I'm not greedy; I'm not looking for a piece of the pie. It's the farmer's time. People want to go and see the farmer themselves rather than a guy like me. I don't want to compete with the farmers because it's their time to shine. The sun is there for everybody.
Ruby: At this time of the year, what do you find sells most?
Joe: More greens, like rapini and escarole and fennel. People ask for more potatoes and carrots too.
Ruby: How do your own values about food get incorporated here at Marche Tania?
Joe: Coming from an Italian background with good food, we didn't have too much when we were growing up, but we always had love on the table; we always had quality. My parents presented us with that good food and it was special. Today, I'm not only looking to make a dollar, I'm looking to give something good back to the customer. You know what, I'd rather hear them say that what they bought was amazing over me making a buck on that purchase. That's more gratifying for me because that's going to be a recurring customer who comes back and says what he bought was spectacular.
Ruby: Really?
Joe: The dollar is always the bottom line, but it's gratifying when the customer comes back and says 'what I bought last week was out of bounds'. I'm the buyer of all the fruits and vegetables here, so I look for really high end. If it goes 1-10, I'm only looking at 8, 9, and 10. That's the only way because I have to compete with the chain stores. Chain stores focus on price and quantity, but my store is quality and service. The personalized service - that's what I give my customers and that's what they come back for. Sometimes they just linger here for 20, 30, 40 minutes after they've even shopped.
Ruby: What is your relationship with your customers? Do you have your regulars?
Joe: I have customers who used to come with babies in carriages and now they're teenagers or married or have kids of their own and that's amazing.
Ruby: It's pretty incredible to think you watched your own daughter grow up here, as well as your customer's kids.
Joe: It's amazing when I start to think about it. I never thought about it that way.
Ruby: It's even making you emotional now.
Joe: Yeah, it is.
I'm blown away by Joe's vulnerability. He has had a rich history with the people who have come through the store. Joe's relationship with his customers is the basis for how well his business has done over the last three decades.
Ruby: Going back to those who like to come and linger for a long time, do you ever mind people who come in and don't buy?
Joe: I let them be, as if they are home. Almost 10 years ago, I bought an expensive espresso machine so we could offer them a coffee.
Ruby: Are you serious?!
Joe: Yeah yeah, so anybody who just comes in or stays a while, we offer an espresso. Before the machine, we used to go get them at the cafes, but it used to take me so much time to go and then come back. If I would go and get three coffees, and I had three customers in the store, by the time I'd come back there'd be another three customers, so I said to myself, I need an espresso machine.
Ruby: That is seriously the nicest thing!
Joe: People appreciate it. It's not a cappuccino, but it's an espresso. It's a coffee!
Ruby: It's like you're inviting them to your house.
Joe: That's exactly it.
Ruby: It's very much like Italian culture; when someone comes over, what do you do? You offer them a coffee!
Rosie: It's exactly true, you're right. It's a way of making you feel welcome. You don't feel like you have to rush out of here.
Joe: We have a customer, her name is Chi, she asked my wife to make her a tiramisu, and she did. That's the kind of relationships we have.
Ruby: Wow. You just made her a tiramisu because she asked?
Joe: Yeah, why not? She loved it. She comes to the store all the time.
Ruby: I noticed you carry biscotti here also. Where are these from?
Rosie: My sister and I have a small home-based operation in St. Leonard. We opened a little company and we decided to go ahead and bring something Italian to the place. We make them all ourselves.
Ruby: Again, bringing your heritage in.
Rosie: It's nice, we make specialty biscotti's out of Nutella and you can find them in a few cafes around Montreal.
Joe: We're going to make you taste the Nutella cookies after.
Ruby: I don't say no to anything Nutella!
Joe wasn't lying when he said Chi visits the store often. In the middle of our conversation, Joe spots her outside buying a few things. She joins us for a chat and I can see and sense that she's as much part of Marche Tania as Joe and Rosie are. Her response to my asking about the tiramisu? - "It's like, when you eat that, you actually start crying. Other than it tasting good, it feels good." She has history here, and she spends some time telling me how much she appreciates the closeness she's shared at Marche Tania.
Rosie's homemade Nutella cookies on display during the holidays
Chi's testimony isn't the last. All afternoon, a revolving door of good friends and familiar faces continues. Dominic, former owner of the restaurant Lucca, and an old high school friend of Joe's, stops by to chat and begins telling me how they meet old friends at the market all the time. Joe tells a comedic story about a guy from high school who he'd heard had passed away only to see him years later walking around the market exclaiming, "I thought you were dead!" It's hilarious, but it also sparks a conversation about how Joe stays connected to this part of the neighborhood in Little Italy.
Joe: I try to make a difference in the neighborhood. I know everyone and all the restaurants in the area, and they all know me too.
Ruby: Are there any chefs that come here to shop?
Joe: Robert from Primo & Secondo, Anthony from Lucca, Nick from Inferno, and the guys from Vinizza come here. They won't come to buy 90% of their stuff but if they're missing anything or need anything they come here. I don't oblige anyone. When someone asks me where they can get a good pizza, I don't send them to Old Montreal, I send them to them to my next door neighbors. I support this neighborhood big time. I sometimes bring them by hand. I say 'c'mere, this is Nicola Travaglini - they have really good pizza. Nicola Travaglini is a grocery/eatery like Eataly in New York. A lot of people don't know about it, I'll show you after.
As a fellow Italian and market-goer, I had to know if Joe and his family were keeping up with the traditions our grandparents and parents passed down about preserving seasonal produce.
Ruby: As an Italian do you practice any methods of preservation with your fruits and vegetables?
Joe: Yes, my wife does mellanzane sott'oilo (eggplant in oil), pomodoro sott'oilo (tomatoes in oil), peperone arrostito (roasted peppers), and tomato sauce - although because we're in the tomato scene here at the market all the time we don't do a conserva (a process of preserving tomatoes) like my mother used to do all the time. We respect the fruits and vegetables; we don't take it for granted.
Ruby: First thing I noticed when I walked up to the store was a big basket of chestnuts from Italy. If you're not Italian you might not know how to use them. Do you ever catch anyone by the chestnuts, figs, or khaki's (persimmons) and try to get them interested in these slightly more exotic items?
Joe: We're here to educate, for sure. Today they may not know what that is, but we'll tell them how to eat it, and let me tell you, Italians aren't the only ones buying figs anymore - it's French Quebecers, Arabs, Mexicans, etc. who are buying them.
Ruby: Have you noticed that people want to learn more about their food or experience more from varying foods?
Joe: Oh sure, Quebecers were born to not only eat carrots, onions, and potatoes. They've evolved the way we've evolved. We grew up eating zucchini and mellanzane (eggplant). Kids would say 'what the hell is that you're eating?' and it was rapini in our sandwiches.
Ruby: That is so true!
Joe: They thought we were eating grass, but look now, they all want rapini too!
Ruby: Rapini costs a pretty penny on restaurant menus these days as well.
Joe: Yeah, you see!
After a few good laughs, I realize that there is a painfully obvious question I haven't asked Joe yet.
Ruby: What would you say to someone who lives off the island or far off from the market and says that it's not worth it for them to drive all the way here - what could you say to bring them to Marche Tania and the Jean -Talon Market?
Joe: Besides coming to see me, I'd say, come early in the day. Come and have breakfast, shop a little bit, have lunch, shop a little bit, have supper, and just walk. Enjoy the aromas of the market, enjoy the people, enjoy the friendliness, and enjoy the way they speak. You have the one-on-one contact with the people, and you can spend a full day at the Jean-Talon Market.
Ruby: It's a joie-de-vivre to experience this, isn't it?
Joe: Oh yeah!
Ruby: What is your response to those who say that it's cheaper to shop at Provigo or Maxi over Marche Tania?
Joe: You know, there are specials out there and I don't discourage people to go and get them. Sometimes you save that fifty cents or dollar, but you won't get that satisfaction from service. At the chain store you get a cashier that asks you for your fifty cents and that's it. Here it might cost seventy-five cents, but you also get a 'thank you' and a 'how was your day?' and 'how's your family? and 'how many kids do you have?' and 'do they go to school?' It's priceless.
Joe is the epitome of a nice guy. He's had a smile on his face all day, been completely hospitable, and has made it his business to make me feel invited. He's open about himself and his work, and there isn't a thing about him that is rehearsed or forced. He speaks with ease and enthusiasm. He's a hard working guy who takes pride in being a Montrealer. And sports, the guy loves his sports. Not only does Joe express himself on social media about the latest games going on in the city, he regularly appears on Team 990 with Tony Marinaro.
Ruby: You have posters up of Impact players and I noticed on Twitter that you like voicing your opinions and get really into the dynamics of the games.
Joe: I'm a fanatic! I'm very opinionated. I want my teams to do very, very good. The Montreal Impact, this summer, used to practice twice or three times a week at Centre Club Boisbriand. I know the general manager because he comes by with his wife and kids. I know his kids by first name, they know me by first name, they wave at me and ask if they can have strawberries and I give it to them - not because he's the GM, but it's because we love kids and the kids love us. I used to bring a box of fruits to the practice facility. I used to bring Marco Di Vaio a box of figs without anyone telling me I should or shouldn't, I just did it. After the tenth time, the players started to call me by my name 'Hey Joe, thanks for the fruit!' They still thank me all the time, but I did it to show my support.
Ruby: When you're not at Marche Tania, where are you hanging out?
Joe: I'm a huge fan of Montreal, first of all. I'm all about the city, I love Montreal, and I love all the good things that Montreal represents. I love all the sporting events. I was sad that the Montreal Expos left town, but anything that's Montreal-related, even if it's cricket, I'll support it. I don't know anything about cricket, but just to say. I grew up with the Montreal Canadians, and I passed that passion on to my two boys and my daughter. All three are sports enthusiasts.
Ruby: Other than sports, what else are you passionate about or interested in during your down time?
Joe: I love watching tv.
Ruby: Now I have to know, what are you watching?
Joe: Right now, one of my favorite shows on TV is Boardwalk Empire.
Ruby: Great show. Season 1 was incredible!
Joe: Season 2, 3 - it's spectacular. When we lost The Sopranos, I think Boardwalk Empire took over its spot.
Ruby: You think it's more amazing than Sopranos?
Joe: I think it is better; the costumes, the era.
Ruby: The level of detail is impressive.
Joe: Oh yeah, and the history. They educate you.
Believe me, I have to restrain myself at this point because there is no bigger fan of The Sopranos than me, and I could talk TV all day.
Joe tells me that he has loved and enjoyed working at the most beautiful market in Montreal, being in the public-eye, and meeting so many interesting people. From Ginette Reno to Jean Chreitien to soccer players, he has commemorated these memories on his Wall-of-Fame behind the cash register. By the way, Jean Chreitien didn't buy anything but Joe did send him off with a watermelon.
Joe's wall of fame
Winding down, I ask Joe about the future.
Ruby: So, Joe, as we're nearing the end of the interview, I have to ask you, where do you see the future of Marche Tania in 5-10 years from now and will you still be here?
Joe: I still see myself here; I'd like to give it another 10 more years. I've had a lot of offers to sell or go work for people in the wholesale industry.
Ruby: And you've never taken up those opportunities?
Joe: Actually, I tried it. I left my store for a couple of weeks just to try it out and I liked it but I missed the feeling of being with people. I don't want to be in an office.
Ruby: That's really for you, isn't it, to be one-on-one with the people?
Joe: Like my wife says, sometimes I don't stop talking, like in this interview, I go on and on and on. We're people who love people. Nothing educates you more than being around people. We have confidence in ourselves when we're talking to people.
It seems as though I've met half the neighborhood already, and still, one by one, people keep coming in; customers who know Joe and Rosie, people you would mistake for being their actual family members. Owner of Villa Roma restaurant on St. Laurent comes in and asks Joe to pick a nice bag of grapes for her. Nicola of Nicola Travaglini passes by to chat and tells me that Joe sends his customers to him on a regular basis. Nicola's own establishment is so fiercely committed to quality and customers. In fact, after I turned off the tape recorder, Joe walked me over to the Eataly-esque store where Nicola, the passionate food lover, and I spent over an hour talking about the evolution of grocery food culture over the last fifty years.
I came here to interview Joe about his store and food philosophies, and I did, but I left with a whole lot more than I imagined I would. We spoke about the market and the store for a long time, but after the interview, I stuck around for a long time to linger with coffee and talk. I got the opportunity to talk with Rosie one-on-one and get her feedback about life at the market.
Ruby: Do you also feel, like Joe, that you're a part of the community?
Rosie: Oh yeah, definitely, we know everyone in this area. It's like our second home; actually it's more like our first home most times. It's a lot of hours, I'm on a double shift usually - I do this here and then bake 3 days a week.
Ruby: How did the baking come into the picture?
Rosie: Well, my mom had a stroke so my sister stopped working to help take care of her and we decided we could work at something from home. We wanted to try something different and take advantage of the store since we'd have a place to sell them. Then all our friends from the neighborhood encouraged us. They all bought the product and now we sell them at the cafes all around us.
Ruby: So, if they're not buying them at Marche Tania, where can people get your cookies?
Rosie: You can go to Capital next door, Cafe San Simeon, Cafe Vito, Cafe Ciociaro, and there's a place in Mascouche called Citron Que C'est Bon.
Ruby: If someone wanted to do what you and Joe are doing, what would you say to prepare them for this adventure?
Rosie: You better be ready to dedicate your life to it! Yes, the market is booming but there's a lot of competition, and the big store chains are a big threat to us little guys. The people who come to the market are the type who like to smell, taste, talk. There's people-contact here, you can't get that everywhere.
Ruby: Apart from hospitality and family, what does Marche Tania offer that none of the chain stores are offering?
Rosie: The chestnuts, the Moscato pears, you know they're coming straight from Italy, it hasn't been stored away. You may go buy it at the store but it's not actually fresh, it's been in storage. They don't transport produce every single day to the big chains. Joe goes to the wholesaler almost every single day. One day he'll buy something, the next day he'll get something else. Every day he's at the warehouses.
Marche Tania after Joe and his neighbor John finish the renovations
In Joe's words, "at the end of the day, I'm not a millionaire, my richness is what I have at home" and truly, you, me, and anyone who stops by Marche Tania is a part of that. Joe and Rosie invite us in, offer us a coffee, and talk to us in the same way I saw them talk to their friends and family all Friday afternoon. They're genuine people who support and have big love for Montreal, Little Italy, and the Jean-Talon Market.
Do the right thing and go visit them. Go talk sports or food and enjoy these passionate Montrealer's and all around amazing folks. This is what the market is about - sharing, quality, experiencing a connection to food and people.
Marche Tania is located at 166 Marche du Nord. Minutes away from metro's De Castelnau and Jean-Talon. Open 7 days a week. For more info contact Marche Tania at (514) 272-5443
Follow Joe on Twitter: https://twitter.com/JoeMarcheTania
I'd like to extend a major thank you to Joe Romito for his unbelievable warmth, hospitality, and time. Thank you to Rosie Romito for her absolutely divine nutella cookies and for taking the time to speak with me without notice. In addition, I'd like to thank their neighbor John, friends Dominic, and Nicola Travaglini, regular customers Chi and Jeannette for their time, insight, and kind words. I had a memorable day at Marche Tania and Nicola Travaglini's. Thank you!
]]>As a native Montrealer, I have spent most of my life exploring the city and writing about it. With all the "old" that comes with Montreal, there is tradition behind it all. Local food markets have been neighborhood staples for decades. Whether you're looking for farm fresh vegetables or seasonal fruit, you can be sure your vendor is a figurehead for the neighborhood they sell to. The Jean Talon Market has been providing locals with product and produce that is worthy of our bistro's, cafe's, and family dinner tables.
I grew up at the Jean Talon Market - slow afternoons, walking up and down the isles of colors deep and bright. There's a history I have with the market that has kept me invovled. I took the time to write, narrate, and interview local marketgoers in this digital advertisement for the market last summer.
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A locavore is an individual who is concerned with eating food that is grown within proximity to their region over imported food.
Even with local farming becoming increasingly available, affordable and accessible, the percentage of imported products continues to rise. Locavores support local farming and local eating in order to stay as closely connected to their food resources as possible, with the goal of easing economic, environmental and health issues.
]]>What a Locavore Eats
Locavores often define local as food that is grown within 100 miles of where they live. Food that is grown and sold in ones region is a locavores main interest. When it is difficult to buy local because of proximity to resources, locavores often extend that number to 250 miles, as it may be challenging to locate products such as, meat, poultry and fish. Though often confused, locavores do not restrict their diet to organic food. The main criterion of a locavore rests on consuming food that is locally grown, so as to be as close to the source as possible.
Exceptions
When certain products are unavailable to a locavores region, exceptions can become necessary. Coffee, tea, chocolate and spices are among the main products that may be difficult to locate and would require a locavore to seek external resources. Although difficult for those in remote regions, locavores living in a metropolis may be able to find a local producer for these items in specialty stores. Research is key to a locavore who is becoming familiar with local sources that can provide them with products.
Why Locavores Choose to Eat Locally Grown Food
The main concerns for choosing to eat locally grown food have to do with conserving the environment, easing economical situations and benefiting from a healthier lifestyle. Below is a breakdown of these issues:
Environmental - Locavores believe that locally grown food keeps the environment clean while also sustaining a region with a functioning food system. The fewer products that are being packaged and transported from one locale to another, the less damage is being had on the environment. Urban gardening is also practiced among locavores in order to reduce heat-island effect within a metropolis. Locavores place importance on local planting to save on pollution, fuel, greenhouse gas emissions and climate changes. The image below distinguishes the environmental impact between imported and locally transported food in Canada for 2011.
*Climate impact, metric tons of carbon dioxide equivalent per household annually.
Economic - Locavores support local farmers and small food businesses within their communities. Locavores want to see money stay within their community rather than to a major corporation. When local food is purchased, particularly markets where your vendor is usually the same person who grew your food, money paid goes directly back to that farm/food source. The reason for this practice allows local resources to flourish and helps to sustain that regions economy. Food imports cost a great deal of money to package and transport. Food imports often outweigh how much local food is exported out, which deteriorates the economy.
Health - Locavores tend to steer clear of imported foods, particularly produce, since they harbor toxins, waxes and sprays in order to survive the transportation process. Food less traveled equal's food that has the least chance of contamination. Local fresh food is also richer in nutrients since it has spent so little time away from its original source. Locavores have closer connections to their food systems which allow them to have further knowledge about who has grown their food, when, where and how their food was grown, and how to handle their food once it is bought and taken home.
Where Locavores Get Local Food
Locavores support local farming. As a locavore, attaining local produce is an outstanding concern. It has become increasingly available to find local produce. Here are a number of resources that would allow a budding locavore to find the proper resources in order to eat local:
How Locavores Sustain Their Food Needs All Year
The fresh food ethic among locavores is based around seasonal eating. The seasons speak for what produce is planted and consumed. When certain items become available, locavores rely on preservation in order to continue consuming particular products. Between freezing, canning and curing, a variety of seasonal fruits, vegetables and meats can be preserved for year long consumption.
Locavores also practice planting their own pots when seasonal climate conditions make it difficult to find local items such as herbs, lemons and limes.
Images courtesy of: Toms Culinary Ride, Kojo Report, Glendale Heights, Marche Jean Talon Portraits.
]]>This backgrounder takes a look at the role of the Jean Talon Market in Montreal and how its presence within the city has contributed to a local food movement.
Eating locally encourages a food system within proximity that provides locals with sustainable produce. Fresh produce markets play a major role in Montreal's food culture. Four larger, well-known markets - Jean Talon, Atwater, Maissoneuve and Lachine - make up for most of the local produce that is sold in Montreal, making it easy for locals to eat the freshest, shortest-distance traveled food. Therein lays the outstanding belief and value that the local Jean Talon market stand behind - local farming and eating local in order to help Montreal sustain itself with fresh food.
]]> A Look into the History of the Jean Talon Market
The Early Years
The renowned open air market has a rich history in Montreal. In 1931, the city of Montreal purchased what at one time a lacrosse playing field. Namely the most popular market known to Montrealers, the Jean Talon Market was inaugurated by then mayor, Camillien Houde, in 1933. In its infancy, awnings and long canopies from the north and south ends of the open market served as a hub for distributing local produce to clientele. The market then occupied a main building known as the "chalet". Aside from the market occupying the chalet, a Laval bus terminal and restaurant also shared the space until 1961. With a large clock heading the front of the building, the Jean Talon Market settled roots in its underdeveloped yet overpopulated neighborhood. Located in the Little Italy district, the market itself contained a certain European flair with its exterior setup, therefore drawing in local Italian-Canadians. Its defining characteristic being an open air market meant merchants built their own coverings during the winter months in order to keep selling their produce. Over the years, the chalet has served as a point for growth for the market. In 1943, six entrances made up the Jean Talon Market as it looks today. By 1983, heated coverings were put into place in the winter, and by 2004, the market would undergo an evolving transformation.
2004 - Today
The market evolved from a hidden neighborhood market into a dynamic and expansive area. Nestled and surrounded by residential buildings, Jean Talon Market's clientele grew exponentially. Though the market sees most of its traffic from May to October, it became necessary to expand the area for the growing number of vendors interested in displaying their produce. In 2004, an underground garage was constructed in order to open 450 parking spots, which has also made room for 22 new specialty shops in the market. Furthermore, the space created room for 30 new outdoor stales headed by Quebec farmers and artisans. Committed to bringing Montrealers the freshest food possible all year round, the market also went on to expand their winter mall - living up to their longstanding mission statement "To give Montrealers access to local produce in their public markets that relate to their values" (CGMPM).
Until 2006, a vehicle was welcome to traverse through the market streets, but since, a new policy has been implemented, allowing vehicles from Friday to Sunday only. This has been a popular and convenient characteristic of the market.
The Current Issues - Local Produce vs. Imported Produce
Many of the issues that surround the market have little to do with the market itself, but rather the values and beliefs it embodies. The economic, environmental and health benefits behind the idea that local produce is a better, more sustainable food system to live by encounters problems when it is pinned against the convenience and habit of importing produce. Imported produce is transported from out of country resources; this has become the main method of receiving produce in grocery stores. Between quality and cost, imported produce is not always cut out to be the best route. This has contributed to local farming becoming exceedingly popular.
Here is a look at a few outstanding and contrasting issues that have made local farming a widely supported option:
Economic
Environmental
Buying local produce from a market such as Jean Talon encourages a population to grow their own food. Beaudin's article also showcased an urban garden in the middle of Montreal called the Jardin du Marche rue Ontario. This one garden provides neighborhood locals with vegetables and herbs. Supporting local crops promotes a self sufficient attitude. In addition, Montreal harbors 97 community gardens that are in constant demand. Local planting becomes more appealing to a population when quality, taste and handling all left in their control which contributes to a healthier environment in return.
Health
Another health benefit to buying from produce from the market is the relationship locals adopt with their vendors. Every year in late August and into September, Jean Talon Market vendors take down names and numbers of customers who want to reserve bushels of tomatoes, corn, strawberries, etc. for the coming harvest weeks. Vendors also participate in teaching locals about their produce items and different methods of storage, preparation and preservation, all attributing benefactors to a healthier lifestyle. The opportunity to know the person who has grown your food, handled your food and knows how to get the most out of it exists at the market.
Future Implications: How Does the Jean Talon Market Affect Montreal's Future?
In an informative article in the Montreal Gazette, "Radical roots", local farmer Jacques Remillard is featured as one of the many vendors who want Montrealer's to be introduced to fresh and new produce by offering samples of them: "Pairing knife at hand, Jacques spends his autumn days at the market bundled up in wool and flannels, slicing off slivers of bright pink Moroccan radish, pink turnips or black-skinned radishes for customers to try. He's a one man marketing board for varieties of strange and radical roots" (Semenak). This experience is unique to the market. In order to be further educated about local fresh food and its benefits, sampling it and learning about it from the person who grew it effectively brings you closer to the food you eat.
The Jean Talon Market's presence within the city encourages locals to eat regionally and to maintain their produce needs by adopting a seasonal attitude towards consuming. In turn, the market relays these affects to Montreal as a whole:
The Jean Talon Market plays an integral role in inspiring local chefs to showcase locally grown produce. Olivier Perret, chef of the Montreal restaurant, Sofitel, creates a weekly menu from his regular Thursday trips to the Jean Talon Market. His Menu du Marche consists of local produce that is bought from the market. This is another way that the market's influence on Montreal is showcased. Vendors provide and educate customers like chefs who in turn teach their customers about allowing the seasons to create the menus. This circle of local food education passes on the markets values to Montrealers and tourists alike.
The future of the Jean Talon Market is strongly held by the beliefs and values it presents with the bounty of locally grown Quebec produce it showcases. The market brings tradition and availability to Montreal after 79 years of continued growth and expansion.
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Though eating locally sounds like a trendy term adopted by foodie's, purchasing local produce is actually beneficial to your health, as well as the environment. Even with a bounty of information available on the web, questions remain; questions that make local eating sound extreme, out of reach and expensive.
Montreal is home to a variety of fresh food markets that offer Quebec grown produce. The Jean Talon Market, the most popular, has a long history with Montrealers. Providing locals with food that has been grown in their province is one value you can't buy in the grocery store. When the vendor is the same person who grew your food, you know you've reached a community of locals who believe in supporting Quebec while also living healthier lifestyles.
Is eating local really all it's cracked up to me? Here are 5 common myths debunked about local eating that will challenge you to see how a trip to one of Montreal's many markets will change the way you think about fresh food.
Top 5 Myths:
#5 - You can't get locally grown, fresh produce all year round.
#4 - Locally grown produce costs more.
#3 - Locally grown food isn't really better for my health.
#2 - I will only be able to eat certain produce items for a few weeks/months a year.
#1 - There aren't any markets nearby; they're all in the city.
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If you had the power to choose what your kids eat, what would they be growing up on?
If you had the oppurtunity to choose where you buy your food, where would you go?
Isn't home where were the heart is?
Most of us take for granted that we can choose where we get our food and how we feed our families. Take the time to think about your food choices.
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The local food movement in Montreal is a way of life more so than a trend. Locally grown food that is sold to you by the very person who grew it has quickly become recognized for its accessibility within the city. This wholesome and healthy approach to buying local is now easier than ever to attain. Home to over a dozen fresh produce markets sprawled across the city, this guide has complied four of the best internet resources to find out where these local markets are and what you need to know about them. In addition, check out the Top 5 list of sites that help answer why buying locally grown produce is important for your health.
4 Resources on Local Montreal Markets
About.com - A Guide to Local Eating
Corporation de Gestion des Marches Publics de Montreal
L'Autre Marche - Local Montreal Market
Top 5 Resources to Discover the Benefits of Local Eating
Discover Why Local Food Will Benefit Your Health
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Walking around Mile End is like checking historic points off of a neighborhood map. For decades, Montrealers have coveted their Mile End favorites like the St. Viateur bagel bakery, open 24/7 and a neighborhood staple since 1957. The old Rialto on Parc Avenue, though having gone through several ownership changes, has survived with all its charm and structural integrity since the 1920s. And then there's Rotisserie Laurier BBQ. A neighborhood landmark since 1936, this Mile End restaurant is on its way to becoming something bigger and better. After 75 years, Rotisserie Laurier BBQ and Gordon Ramsay are about to deal some risky business.
]]> Recently news hit that celebrity chef Gordon Ramsay had become part owner of Rotisserie Laurier BBQ along with current owners, Danny Lavy, Danielle Lord, and Marie-Christine Couture. Does the likes of a straight shooting and crude celeb chef fit into the quaint yet increasingly trendy area of Mile-End? One might argue that Rotisserie Laurier BBQ is not in need of saving, seeing as it has survived for over seven decades. On the other hand, for a place that looks tired and out of place on Laurier Street, it most likely will benefit from a Ramsay-style reformation.On the brink of closing in just over a month's time, Rotisserie Laurier BBQ is about to undergo a Gordon Ramsay-style transformation. Though the details of that transformation remain mysterious to date, rumor has it Ramsay plans to do up the barbecue joint by turning it into a two-story bistro/bar. Also rumored, the historic rotisserie will now adorn the chef's name. Aside from speculated reports, Ramsay is undoubtedly set to make changes to the old-fashioned barbecue and fries menu. Ramsay would be smart to tweak the restaurant classics rather than overhaul. After all, it was the classics that caught and held the chef's attention following his visit to Montreal back in late 2010. According to an interview in The Globe and Mail on November 12, 2010, Danielle Lord confirmed that it was Chef Ramsay's liking of the food that led him to begin this new venture: "When Gordon came to visit this place, he was charmed by the Laurier BBQ, by Laurier street, by Outremont, by Montreal, and decided that it would be a good challenge to be part of team...". The modest restaurant specializes in barbecue chicken and ribs, and offers up its fare to a loyal clientele. If for 75 years, Rotisserie BBQ Laurier has survived on loyalty, why do we need Gordon Ramsay to come in and change the lay of things? Does trendy trump tradition?
In the case of Rotisserie Laurier BBQ, tradition should be prepared to roll with it.
Gordon Ramsay's temperamental discipline is controversial and questionable, but behind the potty mouth is a chef who has taken a serious interest in bringing back to life the likes of tired and lacking restaurants. In 2004, Gordon's Kitchen Nightmares debuted in England and showcased Ramsay intervening to rescue restaurants from the brink of failure in his native country. His passion for quality food and service lends direction and motivation to staff and owners, resulting in reformed restaurants. Ramsay could bring a surge of capital and a new found reputation to Rotisserie Laurier BBQ that is in need of a face lift. While historic preservation, especially in a city like Montreal, is essential, sometimes what history needs is a helping hand.
Montréalers have forgot the rotisserie spot on Laurier St.. Most likely you've heard about the place or been there once or twice years ago but can hardly remember anything special about it. The chicken is just chicken and there isn't anything special from the fries to the soups; the food in general lacks distinctive flavors that create memorable food experiences. There isn't anything remarkable about the rotisserie to garner attention outside of the small number of loyal customers and random walk-ins.
That's where Gordon Ramsay comes in.
Ramsay's culinary experience and direction will take the menu and the ambiance to another level. I don't think a rotisserie in Montreal's small nook of Mile-End needs an overly refined and overpriced restaurant. What locals need is a place where they can go to pinch barbeque cravings with food that tastes and looks invested in creating a comforting, lasting memory. What locals need is to see their neighborhood barbecue joint bettered, not totally abandoned. With a mission for quality and the driving determination of its new partner, Ramsay can help Rotisserie Laurier BBQ fit into, as well as help raise the number of worthwhile restaurants in the area. The now dormant establishment isn't contributing anything meaningful to Mile-End other than being that old, ok, chicken place. In addition to a culinary and financial contribution, Gordon Ramsay's name behind the rotisserie will shed more light on Montreal's food scene.
Montreal is slowly being put on the map as a culinary city to look out for. With the success of Garde Manger in the Old Port, owner and head chef Chuck Hughes hosts his Food Network hit show "Chuck's Day Off" right here in the city. Montreal is finally becoming recognized for more than poutine and allowing great chefs to stand out and represent us. The addition of Gordon Ramsay to Rotisserie Laurier BBQ will also help attract the attention of foodie's globally. With all of our markets and food resources across the city, the province, and nationally, Montreal would have an advocate in someone who has an international following. With the right direction and with the good of the restaurant in mind, the chef could help establish the rotisserie as more than a neighborhood staple.
No one wants to see a long ago established restaurant change so drastically that we as locals can't recognize it. Keeping the integrity of the restaurant's history is important. After reading food writer, Alexandra Forbes food blog containing an interview given by the Gazette, partner Danny Lavy reassures: "This is not going to be a Michelin-starred restaurant project, but a platform for something to roll out". You don't have to be from the area to value a restaurant that has been in the same place, serving the same food to basically the same crowd for so many years. I don't want anything of tradition to disappear in this city, but I think the last thing any Montréaler wants is a flailing business in a borough that lends itself to our city's popularity.
For a city that harbors so many rotisserie joints, it would nice to have Rotisserie Laurier BBQ on the map as the place to get excellent barbecue, a beer, and a memorable time. Gordon Ramsay might be what revives Rotisserie BBQ Laurier. Ramsay's challenge remains restructuring the eatery while respecting the integrity of the restaurant's long history in the city. For now, we'll just have to keep an open mind.
Besides, if the Brit messes up, we'll just run him out of Montreal with our own f-bombs. The French ones.
Image source: Flickr, The Glutton
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